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Security Risk Massif

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Security Risk Massif  


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Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 40.0047, -105.3931 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 72,655
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
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Security Risk Massif, Boulder Canyon.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an organizational entry to help facilitate those less familiar with the maze of crags in Boulder Canyon. This heading includes Upper Security Risk & Lower Security Risk and Higher Security Risk.

There is a pleasant mix of 1-2 pitch routes in the moderate to advanced level of difficulty with a mix of traditional and bolt protected climbs.

Some of the popular routes here include: Pup, 9; Security Risk, 9 or 10; Get Smart, 10+; Crash Test Blondes, 11; Hot Flyer, 12-; Plan B, 12; The Juice, 12+; The Agony and Ecstasy, 13d.

These are south facing crags high on the north side of the canyon. These can be breezy but can be quite warm in still conditions. This is a popular winter climbing area. There have been wildlife nesting closures applicable to this area. Check first!

Getting There 

Park about 6.7 miles past Elephant Buttresses as for Happy Hour Crag. Hike up to the R of Happy Hour Crag for an aerobic workout that will last from 15-30 minutes depending on your level of fitness.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.4 miles from here

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',9],['5.12',10],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Security Risk Massif:
Security Risk   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Security Risk
Prism   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Lower Security Risk
Pup   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   Upper Security Risk
Get Smart   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Security Risk
Cracking the Code   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   Upper Security Risk
Crash Test Blondes   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Security Risk
Hot Flyer   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Security Risk
Enemy of the People   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Lower Security Risk
Plan B   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Security Risk
Hot Wire   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Upper Security Risk
The Juice   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Security Risk
Browse More Classics in Security Risk Massif

Featured Route For Security Risk Massif
The route climbs the crack system right of the tree on the left. All three starts are visible. The shadowed big left facing corner on the left is the original 10c start. The first crack/shallow right facing corner right of that is the 5.7 (++) start. The shallow left facing corner right of that is the 10a start. Men are From Mars, a short 11b sport route, climbs into the shadowed left facing corner at the top center of the photo.

Security Risk 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Lower Security Risk
Locate the major crack system more or less in the middle of the crag. This crack system starts about 40' off the ground, and the first problem is getting to it. The standard start shown in Rossiter is difficult (10d) and hard to protect, somewhat out of character with the fun and well protected nature of the rest of the route. I recommend avoiding it.P1. The easiest start is a 5.7 crack which is a few feet right of the line of the upper chimney. Climb this short pitch to a nice ledge at the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Security Risk Massif
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 8, 2010
Forest Service Reopens Climbing Areas in Boulder Canyon
www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/
Contact: Maribeth Pecotte, (303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. (April 2, 2010) The Forest Service has reopened some climbing areas in Boulder Canyon that were closed to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

Security Risk and the Blob Rock/Bitty Buttress areas are now open to climbing and other activities. These areas are located along State Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.

These closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Although these areas are being reopened, the Forest Service anticipates reinstating the closures in future years, to allow the eagles to choose their nest site without being disturbed.

The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31. Signs will be posted at key access points into the areas remaining closed. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will continue to monitor the areas.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/r....
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 26, 2012
From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 15, 2012
From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

www.fs.usda.gov/arp
Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

(303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. March 15 This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 30, 2013
From the USFS:

Boulder, Colo. (Jan, 30 2013) The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recrea... (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.
By Mark Rolofson
Feb 14, 2014
I find it very frustrating that over the past 14 years, these crags have closed in February often through May for golden eagles. This is not a nesting site & this was proven by wildlife biologists (Brent Bibles of the Colorado Division of Wildlife & Dr. Rob Ramey, former director of Zoology at the Denver Museum of Nature & Science) in Summer 2004. The only egg shells found in the nest on the upper right side of Upper Security Risk were from ravens and were 25 years old. Climbers should voice there disapproval to the Boulder Ranger District of the US Forest Service.
A group of us tried to get the Forest Service to lift this closure 9 years ago. This group of climbers included Chris Archer (attorney for the Access Fund), Rick Thompson & Shawn Tierney (former land acquisitions directors of the Access Fund), Rob Ramey (wildlife biologist), and myself (Boulder Canyon guidebook author & climber/first ascentionist). We were partly successful by getting the Forest Service to lift the closure of the buffer zone that was Happy Hour Crag & Bihedral Rock.
Beverly Baker (wildlife biologist) of the US Forest Service did not want to listen to the scientific facts and has continued to place a seasonal closure on Security Risk Crags every year despite the absence of raptors nesting at Security Risk crags.
I wrote about this unjustified seasonal closure on page 19 of "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I".