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Secteur Free Tibet
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Free Tibet T,S 

Secteur Free Tibet 


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Administrators: Euan Cameron, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 26, 2012
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Chalet de la Maline and Secteur Free Tibet on a fo...

Description 

Named for the area's interesting multipitch sport route, this section provides scattered 4 or 5 pitch routes in a beautiful setting upstream from Chalet Malines.


Getting There 

This section can be acessed via two different approaches:
1) (Recommended) From Palud drive counter-clockwise on D23 and try to find a limited parking spot at Chalet Malines. Follow Sentier Martel (the 15km inner gorge trail that extends from Chalet de la Maline to Point Sublime) as it passes an iron ladder, winding down and around a few bluffs. After ~15 minutes of hiking, you will encounter a sharp switchback to the right at which point you have two options: cut to your left, away from the trail, across the talus, trying to stay paralell to the cliff for 300m OR continue down a couple more switchbacks to a large sand/scree slope. Turn left up this slope and as you face the cliff, aim up and right for the distinctive toe of Free Tibet. This option includes more waste of elevation but is easier to spot your destination.

2) Approach as if going to Grand Eycharme: from Palud, drive 15.5 km clock-wise around D23, past all of the initial overlooks, the tunnels and finally a set of switchbacks leading back down into the Gorge. Park below the 6th and final switchback. Follow a trail and occasional cairns in a perpendicular direction from the road. Pass the rappels of the Petit Eycharme and Monier as you begin to contour to the right along the cliff top. Two rappels (50m, 35m) down Pipes Chaudes Et Sueurs Froides deposit you at the base of this cliff section. Walk climbers left for the climb Free Tibet.


Climbing Season


1 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Secteur Free Tibet
Free Tibet starts on the potruding buttress on the left side of the wall (just to the right of a recessed gully.)  From there it aims for the right side of the large dihedrals higher on the wall.

Free Tibet 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : France : ... : Secteur Free Tibet
If only for the top pitches themselves, Free Tibet would be a short but classic line. Unfortunately the first pitch detracts from the line as a whole.P1(5.7, mostly low 5th class) Follow the line of bolts as it zig-zags in a general rightward direction past dubious rock. Belay on a dirt pedestal from bolts that are up and right of a large bush. This pitch is a rope stretcher and should be carefully managed for drag. 175ftP2(5.9) After a lack-luster start, the second pitch begins to develop s...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Secteur Free Tibet Slideshow Add Photo
Free Tibet and Monier
Free Tibet and Monier
From Chalet Malines follow Sentier Martel (red) down into the gorge with two possible approaches (green) to Free Tibet.
BETA PHOTO: From Chalet Malines follow Sentier Martel (red) do...
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