Secrets and Lies  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Darl Biniaz, Todd Goss Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Oct 31, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private Land Owned by Teck Cominco Mining Co MORE INFO >>> Check with local climbing shops for access info to this and other Utah Hills Crags. Info at: The Desert Rat (435) 628-7277 This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A steadily-steepening route with a pumpy, reachy crux on less-than-totally-positive holds.

Start up a dirty, crumbling alcove to the first bolt, wondering if the edges you are stepping on in order to clip the first bolt will crumble into oblivion. Continue up and right through three more bolts using large pockets to an enormous, deep pocket (it'll swallow most of your arm).

The fifth bolt and the crux lurk above; figure out how to get to more positive territory with initially inobvious holds and poor feet.

Through the crux, breathe a sigh of relief while trying to figure out the final moves to the anchors.

The Goss guidebook reports that continuing above the rap anchors to another set of anchors clocks in at .12d.

Location 

On the left side of the right alcove of The Arch Wall, the first bolt is located above a loose, dark brown alcove at what appears at first glance to be an uncomfortably high level. The subsequent bolts trend up and right.

Protection 

5 bolts, rap hanger anchors.