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The "3rd class" scramble is best protected with a rope as the ledge and corner are dirty and loose.
From a tree in the corner above the 3rd class a stunning hand crack behind a rock flake is gained and climbed over the bulge to a pod. Getting into the pod is the first crux. Offwidth up this, can be strenuous, reaching the upper chimney. This chimney is more difficult than 5.7 and there is a delicate set of moves to get up and over left to the belay bolts.
From Doggie Do, go up the sandy slope to the left walking the base to the promenent ramp/corner which can be scrambled 3rd/4th class. If you go to far out on this you find yourself at the start of Edge of Night. You want the early dirty corner that leads up from the big oak.
Pro through 4" good placements back in the crack take smaller. Some thoughtful placements at the top to protect the second traversing over to the belay.
|By Tommy L-D|
Oct 23, 2010
The "3rd Class Scramble" definitely felt like some 5th class near the top, belay definitely recommended
|By Dave Alden|
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
Fun but A LOT of loose rock.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Definitely use a belay on the approach pitch. I'd call it 5.4-5.5 with loose dirt & bushwacking. It kind of sucks, but the real pitch is worth the effort. Make sure to stay further right than you think. Don't take the midway ledge across but hug the wall and keep going up until you reach a rapp anchor off of the tree.
There isn't that much loose rock, though the top belay anchor is a little unnerving as it is two very old bolts backed up by webbing slung through a very hollow knifeblade flake. This would be a good anchor to re-bolt & spare the neighboring rock.
Chimney felt like 5.7 to me, not too bad, although it is probably harder closer to the outside where it is narrower, and at the exit if you're facing the 'better' way for the chimney (right side in). I burrowed deep inside to where it was wide enough to turn left-side in, and chimneyed up the wider part before I traversed out to the undercling & little roof.
You can barely make it down with 1 60m rope if you rappel to the tree belay and then to the ground.
Last weekend I added new webbing and a new rap ring to the top anchor.
And the climb is NOT R. If you bring up to a #6 Camalot you can aid everything but the 5.7 chimney on the climb if desired, and you could fall asleep inside that chimney and not fall out!
|By Peter Haan|
Dec 24, 2012
This is a good climb for intermediates. But the nice little climb could end up being "R" if the leader is neglectful or lazy and lets his or her knee slip down in gaining the first off width from the initial lieback section.
Werner and I rescued a climber who had gotten badly jammed at that spot. The victim had to stand on my shoulders as I jammed below him on lead, for to get his knee out. The situation was obviously quite funny but it was horrifying for the young Schoen kid and in this sense, the climb has an easy enough potential for R.