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This is a delightfully improbable route. Though it looks like it might be hard and unprotected, it turns out to be quite reasonable.
Just right of the start of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip, climb a steep, varnished flake. Continue up, staying just right of a blunt arete, until you reach the left end of a large roof. After a few moves, you can step left to the bolted belay/rappel station on Hundred-Foot Stick Clip.
Climb up to the ledges at the start of Coronary Bypass to a short flake just to the right of the dark headwall.
The initial flake of Secret Ingredient.
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