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BETA PHOTO: The line of Secret Ingredient
This is a delightfully improbable route. Though it looks like it might be hard and unprotected, it turns out to be quite reasonable.
Just right of the start of Hundred-Foot Stick Clip
, climb a steep, varnished flake. Continue up, staying just right of a blunt arete, until you reach the left end of a large roof. After a few moves, you can step left to the bolted belay/rappel station on Hundred-Foot Stick Clip
Climb up to the ledges at the start of Coronary Bypass to a short flake just to the right of the dark headwall.
The initial flake of Secret Ingredient.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 11, 2014
Excellent pitch. Replaced the old webbing on the Hundred Foot Stick Clip anchor; a slightly diagonal one-rope rappel (climber's left) reaches easy downclimbing.