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Second Thoughts 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: James on Apr 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The second pitch is visible just right of a small ...

Description 

Step up past the tree into a moss/dirt filled crack. Pass two more trees, then up a short runout up an easy slab to a larger tree. From here, climb a wide crack to a slopey ledge to belay (70 feet, 5.6).

Pitch two is cleaner, more interesting and a little harder. Climb straight up the crack from the belay ledge (wide gear is welcome here). When you come out of the offwidth, you have some choices. I used a dirty crack to the left with a prickly bush. Karen took a more pleasant line between two cracks. Anyway pick a line, from here to the top is easier (65 feet 5.7).

As of this writing, there are slings (added cord) with links/biner around a tree just left of your top out.

It is a dirty route in places with vegetation, but it is in a nice setting, therefore one star.


Location 

This route starts on the far left side of the dome. You will see two cracks on the left side. They both have trees at the start. This route is the left of these cracks.

I believe there is some kind of walk-off, but we did not explore that option. Instead, we rapped back down slightly left of the route. When you pass the end of a gully on your left, drop over the left side. We had a 70 meter rope with about 15-20 feet of extra rope on the ground. From here, scramble/hike a short distance downhill to the start.


Protection 

Standard rack, heavy on the big stuff. I took 2- #5 cams (1-BD & 1-Friend) and # 2 & 3 BigBros.



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By slim
Administrator
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There was a golfball (?!?) buried in the mud near the 2nd tree. We opted for climbing/scrambling higher to walk off, rather than rap down the cat's claw infested gully. In hindsight, we would have chosen the rap instead.