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Sunset South
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Second Sun 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Peter Henley - 1980
Page Views: 1,634
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 1, 2006
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corey on second sun

Description 

Second Sun is a full-value 5.9 that gets a well-deserved three stars in the DCA. Occasionally strenuous stances for placing pro mean you better be solid at the grade to lead this route.

A somewhat slabby start moves into a short, shallow dihedral, then to thin moves over a bulge. Continue up to a small roof; pull the roof move and follow another dihedral to a more juggy finish.


Location 

Starts just left of Blonde Ambition.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams. Bolted anchors.



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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Dec 12, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I don't remember stances for gear being that bad at all... though there were some heady moves above a #3 stopper at the crux. Awesome route with great protection!

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Aug 13, 2007

Outstanding route. I enjoyed leading it so much that I had to bump it up to four stars!

By Sam Adams
From: Knoxville
Aug 24, 2009

Stances for placing gear were fine to me. The unnerving part was climbing above my gear at the first crux, but that's way cool once you've done it.

By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
Jun 16, 2013

The flake at the start flexes slightly under outward pull, so be careful when placing cams behind it.