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Long crack is good for cams, but it's still manky limestone. Don't get too excited about the pro.
It's the second crack. Right of Blank Face
BETA PHOTO: Carl climbing the outside of second crack or Myrtl...
BETA PHOTO: looking up second crack
|By Marty Combs|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
Definitely one of the better leads at the palisades. It's too bad the finger crack doesn't last longer.
|By Gary Taylor|
Sep 26, 2009
The description and the picture shown are both of the route called First Crack.
|By A.J. W|
From: Stillwater, OK
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
The description and picture is for for an undocumented route i named third crack unless someone knows a different name. First crack is actually left of nosey and second crack is to the right of nosey.
|By Gary Taylor|
May 13, 2010
This route is DEFINITELY First Crack. It appears in a guide book entitled "Guide to the Mississippi Palisades" by Demetri Kolokotronis published in 1965 and also in "River Rock" by Bill Collett and myself published in 1983 and revised in 1991.
The First Crack through Fourth Crack routes are numbered in sequence from RIGHT TO LEFT. Fourth Crack is not a very distinct crack and is also known as Double Overhang.
|By Dave Goodell|
Aug 16, 2011
I agree that the main route description photo is incorrect (it shows First Crack). My comments below refer to Second Crack, which is to the left about 10-15 feet from the route pictured in the main photo. The other submitted photos look right to me.
I top roped it on Sunday and found it an enjoyable easy route. This would probably be a good route for new climbers. I didn't lead it, but IIRC the pro would have been mainly in the large crack on your right (mostly #3 Camalot and bigger, maybe some large hexes endwise?).
There are three bolts for anchoring at the top to the right of the crack, two side-by-side and one a few feet lower.