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Huong struggles with some other leader's welded nu...
Pitch 1: Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time. 30m
Pitch 2: Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation. 60m
This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rat's Ass).
Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.
Nearing the crux on Second Coming, Looking Glass, ...
D. Lutes following the first pitch of Second Comin...
|Comments on Second Coming
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
Oct 16, 2006
Second Coming has scored numerous injuries from people blowing it at the crux and tumbling down the slab. Make sure your gear is solid before you commit.
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 1, 2007
Excellent route! It's easy to see why some leaders have taken falls at the crux bulge; it's a delicate sequence on holds that felt a little slick to me. But the move is well-protected.
|By Chuck Parks|
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 1, 2008
Leaders should be advised that the right face of the corner above the typical pitch 1 belay ledge is composed of large, and very hollow flakes. Be careful how you place gear here, or continue up another 20 feet or so and belay at a smaller ledge.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 14, 2008
very enjoyable climb. Good warm up for the 5.8's on the S Face. I like this climb, you build a belay after the first pitch, the rest is a nice cruise.
|By ed hall|
From: melbourne fl
Aug 8, 2009
I agree with chuck parks do NOT belay off the flakes, they have been there forever but plenty of other solid cracks and brows to hang an anchor.
|By Joshua McDaniel|
From: Johnson City, TN
Nov 21, 2009
Hadn't climbed this route in quite a few years, and someone on the ground told me that 'avoid rope drag on the last pitch by climbing 10-15 feet higher than the ledge just after the crux.'
So I did this and it puts you right underneath the big hanging flake corner. The crack in the corner at the '2nd' ledge is very hollow. I had to tap around for quite a while to find sound placements to belay up my second.
I don't know where the climb higher past the first ledge advice came from...but I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 22, 2009
Joshua McDaniel wrote:
I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
I agree, there's no good reason to climb higher to what would be a marginal anchor. I've always used this first ledge whenever I've led Second Coming; there's very solid placements for anchoring there (which is probably why the bolts were chopped), and I've never experienced any rope drag on the second pitch.
|By Rob Rives|
May 3, 2010
I couldn't help but be giddy after leading the first pitch. A lot of fun for the grade!
From: Lawrenceville, GA
Jul 11, 2010
Flake at 1st belay is pretty hollow but will take small cams well, there is a solid red tri-cam placement in a brow on the left face of the corner plus the route eats gear from the ledge up for 20' so just put something in to protect the anchor. Shouldn't have to worry about falling. It's like 5.3 until you get near the top.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2011
This was the first technical rock climb I ever did, back in 1992 with Mike McCormick of Looking Glass Outfitters. What a treat it is to come back now and read about it. Seems like only yesterday. I remember asking Mike on that first day "How can I do what you do?" (meaning lead trad) he looked at me for a moment and said "you've got a long apprenticeship ahead of you".
|By Alan Howell|
May 7, 2012
This is truly a classic line, and offers a great opportunity for new crack climbers to practice jams ranging from tips laybacking to full fist.
The belay after the bulge is quite solid. Some of the above comments are confusing and I'm not sure why anyone would want to place gear under the flakes as they are obviously expanding. Any cams you would place in the main crack are solid if placed deep enough, and there is a nice directional in an eye brow to the left to take the weight of a fall, plus keeping your rope in a more workable and less damaging angle. No need to move higher to the smaller ledge.
The crux move below the belay is a bit of a grunt for 5.7, but basically a one move deal, and well protected. The second pitch is very enjoyable and straightforward, but make sure to keep to the left at the final section where the crack ends to keep to the grade.
The rap station used to be the large tree at the top, but the new bolted station is now down and right of the tree, of which you must do a short rappel off the tree anyway to get to safely. I guess this station was added to keep pressure off the tree, but it adds a bit of time and precariousness. Two 60m ropes will get you down to the ledge for the second rap to the ground.
Standard rack from 00 to 3" is useful. You can do it with all cams, but there are some stellar nut placements if so desired.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
May 8, 2012
@ Alan. There is a rap station up and left (climber) (maybe 20 feet @ 11:00) of the old rap tree. You be able to do this route in two pitches finishing at the new rap station.
| || |Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Aug 12, 2008
|By Jeff Gregory|
Sep 15, 2012
I had such a great experience on this route as my first lead in the 5.7 grade. The crux IS very well protected and the rest of the route eats gear and is very straight forward. My lesson learned was in stopper placement. Lots of great opportunities in this crack system, as well as in the eyebrows.
|By Cody Ashe|
Feb 24, 2013
Got to follow my buddy TJ up and the crux move was wet. I feel like it made it a little tougher than it needed to be.