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Chuckawalla Wall
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Mecca S 
Pilgrimage S 
Popular Demand S 
Sand Puppy S 
Sand Witch S 
Sandcastle S 
Sands of Blood S 
Say Your Prayers S 
Second Coming S 
Solace S 
Staloner S 
Still Waiting S 
Three Bars Black S 
Tombstone Bullets S 
Vertical Smile S 
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Second Coming 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J. Visser (90's)
Page Views: 4,738
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Final steep section.

Description 

According to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and, according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.'

These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing particularly classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination.

A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top.

Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Location 

This route is the 8th from the right on the wall.

Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to its left side and follow the line to the ground. That is the line of this climb.


Photos of Second Coming Slideshow Add Photo
Second Coming
Second Coming
Clipy clip
Clipy clip
Setting up for the crux
Setting up for the crux
Moving to the second bolt
Moving to the second bolt
Sticking the last big move before the anchors
Sticking the last big move before the anchors
Mantle at the top
Mantle at the top
On Second Coming
On Second Coming
Joshua Moreland on Second Coming.
Joshua Moreland on Second Coming.
Nearing the top
Nearing the top
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo

Comments on Second Coming Add Comment
Show which comments
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Feb 23, 2004

When rating rtes those guys and most other people give stars per cliff. That rte is 3 stars for that cliff only!!.Personally I don't give a damn just thought you might need some guidance on such matters.
By richard magill
Apr 5, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent route - steep with solid holds and great position.

3 stars for sure.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 25, 2007

An okay climb with super polished holds....similar to climbing on frictionless limestone
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I really enjoyed this climb. Yes, its polished but oh well. The crux was at the 3rd bolt. the moves up high are really fun. There are some very good holds with a big move at the top. i loved the exposure on this climb. you also have a rest around just under the bulge. Loved it!
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Feb 14, 2015

Todd Perkins re-bolted the climb today (2-13-2015) with stainless steel glue in bolts. The anchor was also replaced. Jorge Visser the first ascentionist was present at the crag today and climbed it in good style. It was first put up in 1992 according to Jorge.
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I find it unfortunate that Tony Bubb from Boulder, Colorado wrote the description for this route & not a local. Tony uses the description to disagree with the quality other climbers have attributed to this fine climb. It is a classic overhung soft rock sport climb. Well worth the drive & repeating. Very well bolted with some small edges & engaging clips around 3rd & 4th bolts. The powerful sidepull / sloper finish makes for a sustained .12a. I don't remember the polish. If it's hot it might feel polished. I climbed this route in 2000 & 2009. It's nice to hear it now has glue-ins.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2015

Funny that. I wrote the description, and the consensus pretty much falls in line with what I wrote. I said 3*'s and 12a, and so did about 1/2 of all other opinions. (34 of the 71 reviewers) Some comments mention some detractors, some don't. I guess not all people (Rolofson) are inclined to believe that their opinion isn't really worth anything more than mine. Especially when they are also not locals.
I suppose, I conclude that: 'Mark Rolofson uses the route comment forum to take personal issue with an individual whose comments are reasonably supported by consensus.'

In all seriousness, I hope your day improves from whatever situation inspired you to do that other than to simply disagree. Or if this is just an average day for you, I hope life gets better in general. A nicer demeanor and more positive attitude can nudge things in that direction if you choose to adopt them.

At least your communication isn't involving threats of violence or vandalism this time. I guess that is a fortunate step forward.
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