Second Coming  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  J. Visser (90's) Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 26, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

According to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and, according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.'

These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination.

A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top.

Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors.

Location 

This route is the 8th from the right on the wall.

Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to its left side and follow the line to the ground. That is the line of this climb.

Photos of Second Coming Slideshow

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Second Coming	Setting up for the crux	Sticking the last big move before the anchors
On Second Coming	Nearing the top	Mantle at the top
Final steep section.	Second Coming, 5.12a	Joshua Moreland on Second Coming.