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Aaron Livingston
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Feb 13, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 330
Trying to verify if "up" has seen a second ascent. According to "Zion Climbing: Free and Clean" the route has yet to see a repeat. I was able to find a topo from the first ascensionist and as of February 2012, according to him, there had still not been a repeat. If anybody has any accurate information about the status on repeats please let me know!
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Spencer Weiler
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Feb 14, 2014
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Grand Junction
· Joined Jun 2008
· Points: 2,668
Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests.
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user id
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Feb 14, 2014
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SMOGden, UT
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 75
Spencer Weiler wrote:Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests. Most people don't have the mind nor the skill for routes like this. A great free climb has nothing to do with safety ratings. Grab that 2nd ascent Aaron and let us know how it goes.
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Allen Sanderson
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Feb 15, 2014
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On the road to perdition
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 1,203
Spencer Weiler wrote:Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests. Ever heard of Bachar-Yerian?
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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Feb 16, 2014
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
think of how light the rack would be for those R or X pitches... easy
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Aaron Livingston
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Feb 17, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 330
user id wrote: Most people don't have the mind nor the skill for routes like this. A great free climb has nothing to do with safety ratings. Grab that 2nd ascent Aaron and let us know how it goes. I'm still shooting emails left and right trying to find out about the status. Might go ask the guys at IME or Mountainworks and see if they have any idea. GETTIN' PSYCHED!!!
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Rob WardenSpaceLizard
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Feb 18, 2014
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las Vegans, the cosmic void
· Joined Dec 2011
· Points: 130
get ahold or Bryan Bird, Joe french or Zac lee
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ben jammin
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Feb 18, 2014
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Moab, UT
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 852
Or get a hold of the cats at Zion Mountain School (Caleb and Mike). They might be able to get you some info. Route looks dope.
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Aaron Livingston
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Feb 18, 2014
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Ouray, CO
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 330
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Michael Schneiter
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Feb 19, 2014
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Glenwood Springs, CO
· Joined Apr 2002
· Points: 10,406
I wouldn't doubt it that this climb has never seen a second ascent but I remember seeing this topo in the route info binder at the wilderness desk for years. You never know if someone spotted the topo, got interested and went and did it without telling anyone who is "in the know." Happens all the time although it may be unlikely with this route. I did an old Zion route that evidently was an early ascent and no one would have known had I not seen Bird later on. He acknowledged that it's hard to know who does what when there's no permit system for day climbs. Agreed that if you can get a hold of guys like Bird you can probably get a good answer. Have fun. Looks like a great line in a striking setting.
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