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Second Ascent on "Up" @ The Spearhead, ZNP?
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Feb 13, 2014
Mother Trucker 11a Wall St.
Trying to verify if "up" has seen a second ascent. According to "Zion Climbing: Free and Clean" the route has yet to see a repeat. I was able to find a topo from the first ascensionist and as of February 2012, according to him, there had still not been a repeat. If anybody has any accurate information about the status on repeats please let me know!
Topo - "up"
Topo - "up"
Aaron Livingston
From Moab, UT
Joined Sep 4, 2012
29 points
Feb 14, 2014
adf
Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests. Spencer Weiler
From Salt Lake city
Joined Jun 9, 2008
2,340 points
Feb 14, 2014
DUDE! Your ankles....
Spencer Weiler wrote:
Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests.

Most people don't have the mind nor the skill for routes like this.
A great free climb has nothing to do with safety ratings.

Grab that 2nd ascent Aaron and let us know how it goes.
user id
Joined Mar 19, 2009
120 points
Feb 15, 2014
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
Spencer Weiler wrote:
Huh, half the pitches are R rated and one is X rated. I contend that this will not "become a great free climb" as the FA suggests.


Ever heard of Bachar-Yerian?
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,111 points
Feb 16, 2014
blah
think of how light the rack would be for those R or X pitches... easy Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
84 points
Feb 17, 2014
Mother Trucker 11a Wall St.
user id wrote:
Most people don't have the mind nor the skill for routes like this. A great free climb has nothing to do with safety ratings. Grab that 2nd ascent Aaron and let us know how it goes.


I'm still shooting emails left and right trying to find out about the status. Might go ask the guys at IME or Mountainworks and see if they have any idea. GETTIN' PSYCHED!!!
Aaron Livingston
From Moab, UT
Joined Sep 4, 2012
29 points
Feb 18, 2014
blah
get ahold or Bryan Bird, Joe french or Zac lee Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
84 points
Feb 18, 2014
Kolob
Or get a hold of the cats at Zion Mountain School (Caleb and Mike). They might be able to get you some info. Route looks dope. ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Joined Jul 10, 2008
693 points
Feb 18, 2014
Mother Trucker 11a Wall St.
Thanks for the ideas! Aaron Livingston
From Moab, UT
Joined Sep 4, 2012
29 points
Feb 19, 2014
Goofin' on the Grand after soloing the Upper Exum ...
I wouldn't doubt it that this climb has never seen a second ascent but I remember seeing this topo in the route info binder at the wilderness desk for years. You never know if someone spotted the topo, got interested and went and did it without telling anyone who is "in the know." Happens all the time although it may be unlikely with this route. I did an old Zion route that evidently was an early ascent and no one would have known had I not seen Bird later on. He acknowledged that it's hard to know who does what when there's no permit system for day climbs. Agreed that if you can get a hold of guys like Bird you can probably get a good answer.

Have fun. Looks like a great line in a striking setting.
Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
7,375 points


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