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Second Amendment 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 20th Sept 2012 Tom Lane
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Dec 24, 2012

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Jamie McNeill heading up the first pitch.

Description 

Challenging friction followed by a difficult overhang.
P1 105' 5.10a: (V1) Climb onto a rounded stance below a larger "scoop", clip a bolt then make difficult moves left, up, then back right to get into the scoop. Follow clean orange rock upward, passing 2 small overlaps before reaching a standing belay 35' below the overhang.
P2 95' 5.10b: Climb up easily (V2) to the overhang, to an awkward stance right of a left side-pull. Then make weird and strenuous moves to pass the obstacle. A short bit of unprotected 5.6+ climbing leads to easy slab. Move up left to the ouside edge of a corner facing right, and climb this to an oak tree.

The two variations, taken together, comprise "Bill of Rights", a means of doing this route at a moderate 5.8+ rating.
(V1) 5.8: Climb up the right-rising crack, make a funky move up onto a sloping ledge, and move back left to join the route. This bypasses the 5.10 start.
(V2) 5.8+: Climb up easy slab, heading to the left edge of the overhang. Climb through it on the left edge, and continue along the left edge of the face, rejoining the route at the outside corner.


Location 

The high level spot toward the right side of largest unbroken expanse of rock, about 60' right of the left end of the area.


Protection 

Standard Rack. A #4 C4 can be used as a directional just before the P1 belay.
There is a two-bolt anchor at the midstation, and a fixed anchor on the oak tree at the top.



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