Seams Like A Dream
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Al near crux
The seam is obvious - the dream is linking it with the first pitch of Between the Sheets
- as a single pitch.
Seams Like A Dream: sustained, varied, a little technical, and in character with Between the Sheets
. Itís really a continuation of the beautiful first pitch of Between the Sheets, with an additional crux that is a bit more difficult.
Although this route was first realized as a nice alternative to the second pitch of Between the Sheets
, and as a continuation of the seam, it was quickly recognized as a means of linking the route as a single stellar pitch. Seams Like A Dream was first red-pointed doing just that.
So, this route's description, including the difficulty and quality rating, are based on the single pitch link up.
Start with the route Between the Sheets
. Pass up the hanging belay and traverse right to where the seam starts again. Continue with the seam and finish on the slab above; one nice long pitch.
The location is the same as Between the Sheets
. Consider doing the quick scramble from the base of the Left Book, up to the starting ledge.
See Between the Sheets
. Use a double length runner on the bolted belay of Between the Sheets
, and another one on the first piece of the seam (fixed by others, for Between the Sheets
Small cams and wired nuts; two bolts (that were drilled on lead). Sling the top with the rope or 15' cord for Belay.
BETA PHOTO: View of Seams Like a Dream showing entire route ma...
By Ol' Toby
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Awesome direct finish to Between the Sheets, felt like solid .12 to me for the full link. Thin, technical, and occasionally devious moves lead to a perfect knob in the headwall and a final tricky move to finish. No fixed piece in the seam any longer above the belay.