Seams Beyond  5.10b R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Drew Spaulding w/ John Slezak, Christian Ball- April, 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Drew Spaulding on Jun 21, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Another finish to T2!

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

"Seams Beyond-5.10bR" is not pumpy, but technical and heady. Hair City-esgue! Start up the 1st crack encountered after the T2 pin traverse,(5.9 bulge), then traverse rightward under a large,loose "suitcase-size block" to step up on to the next diagonal ramp. Step over right even more to some solid jugs. Super thin gear at your feet but dubious (15' from last piece out rightward). Pull out the bulge and place 2 good nuts in a row (5.8), then start traversing 15' to the left on a solid hand rail of buckets.... #1-red Camalot protects a slot just before traversing left on this line of jugs. Now you've reached the TCU-nut crack that brings you another 15' straight up. Place that last nut and climb the "City of Rocks Jugs" until you have to do a slightly run out mantel (5.10a section). Then step up to the wide, diagonal crack and climb straight up. Another few placements and you come to a fairly clean looking crux up a thinly protected face. Don't step out left into the obvious corner! Step up right to find a thin RP seam with fingertip holds. Still thin climbing to a horizontal TCU seam, then finish the crux to finally easier ground. Killer jugs to an occasional placement bring you to the top (5.7R-60')

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack. Many thin placements (RPs recommended) 150' pitch to gain the ridge of the Tower Two. There is a slung rappel anchor there to descend down toward the East Slabs Descent.... Or continue to the top to find another slung rappel anchor....