Just right of Ten Years After is a thin crack on a less then vertical wall that leads to a one foot roof and onto another face. It can be top-roped from the top of Ten Years After.
Up to the roof, the climbing is an exercise in smearing, balance and micro-crystal edging. Pulling through the roof is the crux and will have you wondering how you did it, if you do indeed do it! The face above remains very thin and balancy, but is protected by two bolts.
While the climb will greatly challenge someone who usually manages to nail most 5.11a climbs, it's hard to give it more than one star. Let's say that if you have just enjoyed Ten Year's After, it's a very worthwhile top-rope, but isn't a destination in itself.
Although neither my partner nor I led (or could have led) it, the pro is, as the book (Hubbel) says, thin: RPs and small wires to supplement the two bolts. There is some very tough climbing before the bolts, quite possibly the crux is over with before being able to clip.
No hands rest.
Chalking up just below the crux.
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Jul 22, 2003
The bolts protecting the crux of this climb are terrible.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Mar 22, 2004
The first bolt desperately needs to be replaced, fun route though. Felt harder than 11a.
|By Luke Clarke|
Jun 6, 2006
The first protection bolt appears to have been recently replaced and there are two new anchor bolts at the top. I recommend this as a good TR from those bolts after leading P1 of Ten Years after, as I did it, unless you are super comfortable at this grade, which is probably harder than 11a.
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This is a good climb! The bolts have been replaced, and you can safely lead this route with RPs through medium nuts.
Maybe it's because I'm tall, but this felt like .11a. I rarely onsight this grade, but I was able to this time. In the end, however, the rock doesn't care, and all you should know is that this is a great climb that protects well and is a lot of fun!
Give her a lead burn!
May 10, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
That's good news about the bolts. When I did it, they were in really bad shape. I originally gave it an R rating, but I am thinking about changing it to PG-13. It's been a while since I did it. I think I remember decent small gear but maybe a slight bit of being uncomfortable as well.