|201 page views|
|Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>|
This climb goes up the face past the lone bolt left of Mama Jugs, then follows the right-leaning thin crack above. Gear is somewhat tricky to place in the thin crack, though I found ok small stopper placements. The climb joins Mama Jugs, most naturally at the 2-bolt anchor on that route (though the guidebook shows it continuing higher up to the next right-trending ramp, then moving right to Mama Jugs). You can rappel from that anchor with 1 rope, or continue up as for Mama Jugs up and right past the giant chickenhead.
The crux is well-protected by the bolt, an old buttonhead with SMC hanger.
The face with the bolt left of Mama Jugs, joining a right-angling crack.
Nuts and cams to 1.5", including RPs and TCUs. The climb's only bolt protects the crux moves.
The 2-bolt anchor half-way up Mama Jugs makes for a more convenient rappel descent after the harder climbing, though continuing up Mama Jugs and walking off the east end is also an option.