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Gollum's Arch Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bikini Wax T,S 
Facial Hair T 
Frigidaire T,TR 
Gollum's Arch T 
Hurlin' T,TR 
Latch Hand T 
Seam-Stress T 
Tufa Dreams T 
Wrath T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Wilford, Skip Guerin 1980
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: jason seaver on Jun 15, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Nate sussing out the crux. 2-1-03

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the short, thin seam in between Frigidaire and Gollum's Arch. The gear is good, but hard to place, and the climbing is thin, sequential, and feels quite steep for a Lumpy seam. When the seam ends above the bulge, step left into Frigidaire. Finish on that route or build an anchor in it for some TR fun (big finger-sized pieces).

This is one of several excellent and hard pitches of similar character in the Hens and Chickens / Gollum's Arch area. Within a couple hundred yards of each other you have Two In The Pink (11+) and Hagakure (12a) on the Hens and Chickens; and Seam-stress (11d), Wrath (12), and Latch Hand (11c) on Gollum's Arch. They all climb desperate little seams on small gear and make up a kick-ass collection of hard pitches.


Bring RP's, small stoppers, cams to 1".

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