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Sea Wolf 
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Sea Wolf 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Thomas Kelley, Bruce Burgess
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Dec 5, 2011
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Mary peering over the crux bulge of Sea Wolf.
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux of this route may be keeping your head together. Several fun and exciting moves over well-spaced bolts and the occasional small piece of gear. This route is not for leaders just at the grade or unfamiliar with RP/brass placements.

Up the hill from Mennonite Surf Party at a white-splotched blunt arete. Start on the slab apron with a newly added bolt. Move up the left side of the apron to a couple of gear placements. Make the first series of hard moves over gear to move right towards the bolt above the bulge/roof. The last few moves to the bolt at the bulge/roof can be protected with a tapered brass placement. Clip the bolt and pull the crux. Follow the thin seam up and left for a few feet to the RP/brass placements. Head back up and right to a nice ledge and contemplate how far you will be above that thin gear before you get to the next bolt 15' above. A fall onto the RP/brass placements would be very bad from above. Follow the blunt arete for two more bolts into a water groove type feature just to the left. Get some good TCU's/C3 in a few horizontals on the way up. Make one last tough move before the anchors.


Location 

The easiest way to approach the climb is to head to the base of Mennonite Surf Party and turn left. Tunnel under some boulders and continue contouring the cliff up the hill until you reach this separate little wall at the top of the gully. Otherwise there will be a leaf choked gully as a direct approach that is slick. Notice the obvious white splotches up the arete and a few bolts. This climb is taller than it appears, 2 ropes are mandatory to get down. The route just had an update Fall of 2011, so lots of new bolts and some shiny ones at the anchor.


Protection 

Nothing big. Doubles in the .4 to purple TCU size, tapered brass, and RP's. A few shoulder length slings will keep the line a little more straight.



Photos of Sea Wolf Slideshow Add Photo
One last moderate move before the victory lap to the anchors.
One last moderate move before the victory lap to t...
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By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R

This is an R/X 4 bolts and 2 pieces in 150 ft. You wont ketch me leading this anytime soon. Whoever leads this deserves a beer or two.

By BruceBurgessNC
Feb 7, 2014

Thomas Kelley FFAed this route drilling all the bolts from stances with his Bosch. I only held the rope.