The crux of this route may be keeping your head together. Several fun and exciting moves over well-spaced bolts and the occasional small piece of gear. This route is not for leaders just at the grade or unfamiliar with RP/brass placements.
Up the hill from Mennonite Surf Party at a white-splotched blunt arete. Start on the slab apron with a newly added bolt. Move up the left side of the apron to a couple of gear placements. Make the first series of hard moves over gear to move right towards the bolt above the bulge/roof. The last few moves to the bolt at the bulge/roof can be protected with a tapered brass placement. Clip the bolt and pull the crux. Follow the thin seam up and left for a few feet to the RP/brass placements. Head back up and right to a nice ledge and contemplate how far you will be above that thin gear before you get to the next bolt 15' above. A fall onto the RP/brass placements would be very bad from above. Follow the blunt arete for two more bolts into a water groove type feature just to the left. Get some good TCU's/C3 in a few horizontals on the way up. Make one last tough move before the anchors.
The easiest way to approach the climb is to head to the base of Mennonite Surf Party and turn left. Tunnel under some boulders and continue contouring the cliff up the hill until you reach this separate little wall at the top of the gully. Otherwise there will be a leaf choked gully as a direct approach that is slick. Notice the obvious white splotches up the arete and a few bolts. This climb is taller than it appears, 2 ropes are mandatory to get down. The route just had an update Fall of 2011, so lots of new bolts and some shiny ones at the anchor.
Nothing big. Doubles in the .4 to purple TCU size, tapered brass, and RP's. A few shoulder length slings will keep the line a little more straight.
One last moderate move before the victory lap to t...
|By chris mcguigan|
From: belmont, nc
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
This is an R/X 4 bolts and 2 pieces in 150 ft. You wont ketch me leading this anytime soon. Whoever leads this deserves a beer or two.
Feb 7, 2014
Thomas Kelley FFAed this route drilling all the bolts from stances with his Bosch. I only held the rope.