Sea of Vapors
||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 542', Grade V
|Consensus: ||WI6 [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Hendricks and Joe Josephson |
|Page Views: ||3,960|
|Submitted By: ||Noah8000 on Mar 30, 2011|
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Leading Pitch 3 of Sea of Vapors. (Photo by Rafal ...
When in condition as of the first ascent, this climb becomes one of the hardest ice routes anywhere. (WI7+ R) When the sustained thin ice turns into thicker ice, expect to see difficulties in the WI5+/6 range.
As much as I'd like to say I did it in WI7+ R condition, I didn't. I'll explain the climb in the conditions I found.
In 7+ condition Joe Josephson explains that the belay anchors are solid in the rock but besides that there is no gear leading, just sustained steep thin ice with a couple of overhangs.
P1 Climb the WI5 Postcriptum Pillar for 40 meters until you arrive at the hanging bolt belay. (Only bolts on the climb) Continue to stare at the next pitch.
P2 Climb up to the top of the pillar and enter the "Whipper Traverse." The pitons there are quite interesting. OR place a high screw and traverse directly right skipping the Whipper Traverse with a couple of M4/5 moves to Sea of Vapors. I did not do the Whipper Traverse and skirted right before it so I cannot speak for how hard it is. I have heard M6 or M7. Continue up funky vertical ice for a while until the ground eases in angle. (85 degrees)
P3 Continue up a fun pitch of exposed WI5 climbing until a belay can be made. If your lucky, there is sometimes a cave that makes one of the best belay stations I've been on.
P4 Continue up vertical ice until the top of the climb is reached.
The route is the right most line on the Trophy Wall. The start is by the Postcriptum or a direct start can be had via two bolts at the roof but it's been known the crux hold broke making it extremely more difficult then it already was.
Descend via V threads.
In the conditions I found, no rock gear was needed. A couple knifeblades are not a bad thing to bring though. Bring a few stubbies.
The Replicant in WI6+ conditions. Look to see Jeff...
Hitchhiking, mtn biking, hiking, camping, soloing ...
This is around the middle of P2 in PHAT conditions...
Sea of Vapors from the belay on Replicant.
The Trophy Wall with Sea of Vapors on the right
A beautiful climb in incredible fat WI5/M3ish cond...
The M6 traverse, March 2014. I clipped the first ...
Kurt heading up the last pitch
By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Apr 15, 2014
rating: WI6 R
My friend Jon and I climbed the route in March 2014 for the first time. Quite an adventure! He wrote up a nice summary of the day.