This route climbs, five pitches up a slab to the right of "Wings and Stings" and to the right of a tall pine tree.
Approach through bushes and poison oak to a line of bolts, to the right of the pine and a black water streak.
Climb past six bolts (5.10a) to a belay anchor. Another 5.10a pitch leads past five bolts to a two bolt anchor.
From here either rappel or continue up two more easier pitches and a class 4 pitch to the top.
Draws and some gear.
|By Patrick M.|
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
The first 2 pitches are good but definitely run out. There is room for a couple 2-3 cams but I can't remember exactly which ones except for the #3 I used at the start of the 2 pitch). I found that to keep it 10a on the 2nd pitch, the path of least (mental?) resistance often involved clipping a bolt and then traversing to climb up under the next one.
The third pitch involves some bush walking in wasp infected terrain. I could not find the bolt mentioned in the topo at the top of that pitch.
On the fourth pitch, don't follow the final diedre all the way to the top. You need to veer left towards a tree where you will find the rap rings. Then you need to rap completely to the left in order to find the second rap station.