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Sea Gypsy 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010
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Description 

A fun and varied route that pulls through an awesome, obvious roof crack you can see from the ground. The second pitch is a bit spicy but I don't think it's R-rated like the guidebook indicates.

Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor

Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)

Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.

Descent: 2 single rope rappels


Location 

Starts on the right side of the buttress about 100 feet left of the obvious Chlitlin Corner.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



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