Routes in The Precipice aka The South Wall
Albatross T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Balance Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Band of Gypsies T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a | |
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Blackbeard’s Arete T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
Boys From Bangor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Byzantine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Chicken of the Sea T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Chitlin's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Connecticut Cracks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
Dancing Gypsy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Dike Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 | |
Dr. Stix’s Flying Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 | |
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Exit Laughing (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fat Back Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Fat Gypsy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fear of Flying T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Fingers on a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Gale Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Girls From Brewer (Mid-Cliff Start) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Green Mt. Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Grendal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Gunklandia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Gypsy Arete TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c | |
High Plains Drifter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
High Wire T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Impalpable Cracks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Jaws T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Jungle Book T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Juvenile T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
London Bridges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 5.15+ 9b+ 38 XII+ 39 E11 8b | |
Maniacal Depression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Midnight Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Muscle Shoals T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Old Town T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Originator Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Philadelphia Story, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Pipe Dreams T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b | |
Pirates of Penzance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Popeye’s Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 | |
Precipice Ledges T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Pressure Drop T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R | |
Ramp Traverse, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Reef Madness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R | |
Retlaw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Road Less Traveled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 | |
Road To Nowhere T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Rusticator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 | |
Scaramouche T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R | |
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Sea Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 | |
Selfless Bastard T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Side Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Small Crack Warning T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a | |
Southern Fried Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Space Between T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 | |
Staircase, The T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a | |
Standard Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Star Face Mole T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Story of O T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Swept Away T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Tempest, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Trotsky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Wet Lithuanian, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Wilner's Route TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,728 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Andrew Mertens on Jun 30, 2010 |
Admins: | Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons
Details
For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…
Description
A fun and varied route that pulls through an awesome, obvious roof crack you can see from the ground. The second pitch is a bit spicy but I don't think it's R-rated like the guidebook indicates.
Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)
Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.
Descent: 2 single rope rappels
Pitch 1:(5.8 50 ft.) Climb the corner on the right side of the buttress to the two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: (5.8 PG-13/R 70 ft.) Make insecure slabby face moves off the anchor (5.8 crux)to reach a bolt about fifteen feet up. This gets a 5.8R in the guidebook cause if you blow the crux you're going to take a factor two fall on the anchor. After the first bolt continue up easier and slightly run-out climbing right then left up a ramp to a two bolt anchor. (You could probably run this pitch together with pitch one, then you wouldn't have the crux right over the anchor.)
Pitch 3 (5.9+ 90ft.) Climb up under the first, smaller roof, clipping a piece of cord attached to a piton in a small corner over the lip. Pull up into the corner then climb right and then back left till you are under the roof crack. Plug in a #1 or #2 then pull out the roof on jams and crimps on the face on the left. Savor the exposure then climb to the two bolt anchor at the top.
Descent: 2 single rope rappels
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