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El Ultimo Recurso T 
Se Fue Volando T 

Se Fue Volando 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: E. Gutierrez and Andres 1/89
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Paul S on May 15, 2009

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Description 

This is the obvious wide, dirty-looking crack that splits the west face. The climb itself has some pretty dirty sections but the climbing was unique, sandbagged, and a lot of fun in the way that adventure climbing is fun..

P1: Goes up the finger crack that moves slightly to the right into the wide crack which turns into a chimney. The wide crack leading to the chimney is hard! The main reason it's hard is because its very dirty and its hard to get any jam to stick in all the dirt and lichen. Continue up the chimney taking the left option at a fork in the crack. We stopped shortly after this at a nice stance because we were getting short of rope, but if you climb past a short offwidth you'll reach a better stance with slings around a chockstone. Doing this may require a little bit of simul-climbing with a 60m rope.

P2: This pitch is mostly a long squeeze chimney, but I mean that in a good way! There are a lot of huecos, cracks, and jugs to help you along the way. From where we belayed at the lower stance this pitch was close to a full 60 meters and climbs all the way to the ridge where you can build a natural anchor. I had a lot of fun on this pitch.

P3: Although the topo rates this as the hardest pitch, it was by far the easiest. Continue up the ridge to the summit. There's not too much gear for this pitch and some of the holds are pretty thin towards the top, but the climbing is pretty easy.

To get down, rap down the ridge to a bolted anchor. Then make another full rap down into the obvious chimney/gulley. This doesn't quite make it all the way down, but lands you on a gigantic chockstone. To get down from here, climb through a small hole that leads into a dark oblivion that turns out to not be that bad and leads to the ground. Also, the pull of the ropes looks like it is going to be bad, as there are tons of things for the rope to get caught on. Ours pulled perfectly, but we may of just been lucky.

Protection 

Double set of cams with 1 #4 camalot and a set of nuts


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