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Grandma Peabody Boulder
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Essential Peabody 
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SE Arete T 
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West Corner 

SE Arete 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: D-Storm on Oct 22, 2008

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The Southeast Arete of Grandma Peabody.

Description 

This line is either a 5.10 solo or toprope.

An awesome, bouldery move down low pulling onto the arete (over sloping ground and a pile of cheater stones) is the physical crux, but the top is what packs the punch. I've onsight freesoloed several 5.9s and 10s, particularly in Eldorado Canyon, Colo., and I had to take a long pause and some big breaths before the sequential, steep-slab finish on this one.

This route provided one of my most rewarding experiences during my four-day visit, but I won't say I'm going to climb it again any time soon.


Location 

East of the SW Arete, all by its lonesome where no one will see you fall or hear you scream.


Protection 

There are bolts for toproping, but who brings a rope to the Peabodies these days?



Photos of SE Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Once you get past the start, the rest of the line is committing but not nearly as hard.
BETA PHOTO: Once you get past the start, the rest of the line ...
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By D-Storm
Oct 22, 2008

A good photo of the route is Blitzo's black-and-white that's included with the main description of the Grandma Peabody boulder. See the line in the middle where the white meets the black? Follow that, stepping up and right near the top.