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The Crow's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso S 
Clambake S 
Corvus B. TR 
Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
Little Mermaid, The S 
Mussels S 
Mutiny S 
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 
S.O.S. S 
Saint Elmo's Fire S 
Scuttlebutt S 
Sea Breeze S 
Seasick S 
Starboard Drift T 
Trad's Nest, The S 
Walk the Plank S 
Woman Overboard S 

Scuttlebutt 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Austin at the anchors
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the chimney in center of right the wall, just left of Pee Wee's. It is really fun if you like chimneying at all, and actually kind of thought provoking for the grade. More engaging and fun climbing than it may look from the ground. The crux may be exiting the chimney onto the left face about 2/3 way up. People often do a corkscrew move to accomplish this. Get on it!


Location 

to the right of the Little Mermaid


Protection 

bolts to L.O.'s



Photos of Scuttlebutt Slideshow Add Photo
Scuttlebutt
Scuttlebutt
the dark chimney of scuttlebutt
BETA PHOTO: the dark chimney of scuttlebutt
Scuttlebutt
Scuttlebutt
Scuttlebut
Scuttlebut
Comments on Scuttlebutt Add Comment
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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 20, 2009

any more description then the right chimney? is the route any good? how the moves, help me out here a description that told me about the route would be nice

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I watched some people get in and chimney the whole way up; it's doable.. but wasn't my cup of tea. I opted to treat it as a face climb, stemming out to the right frequently. I hopped into the chimney for a few feet before reaching the anchors.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010

a fun little climb for sure.... cleaner and more interesting than some routes in the area...

By twellman
Apr 13, 2010

Why the PG13 rating? There are like 6 bolts in 30 feet. Perhaps because a fall would suck you into the chimney?

This route is really fun for how short it is. Also, felt a bit harder than 5.6 when done staying outside the chimney and stemming, but real fun nonetheless.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 13, 2010

yeah, over bolted? maybe... unsafe? no...

By Barrett Stetson
Jul 19, 2010

Depends if you like chimneys I guess. Apparently I'm not a huge fan, because I found this supremely awkward. Was very happy not to be trying to trad climb it.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010

Finally got on this today and found it enjoyable, with a corkscrew move nearing the anchors.

Clip the first bolt for the left face then dive into the chimney using your entire body to climb. the crux comes around the last bolt when you have to turn around (either direction works). Fun climbing up a chimney very foreign for Rumney.

By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Jul 26, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Super fun climb! I disagree with the PG13 rating. Sure it would suck to fall in a chimney but that doesn't mean this route is not well protected.

By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

One of the most interesting chimney climbs I've done.

By twellman
Apr 21, 2013

Lee, I think it would be appropriate to remove the PG13 rating, given the super safe bolting of the climb. Wouldn't want anyone to miss out on scuttling their butt up this one because of a false sense of danger.