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Sculpture's Crack Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Sand Blast TR 
Sculpted Crack Left TR 
Sculpture's Crack TR 
Sculpture's Crack Traverse 

Sculpture's Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,296
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 3, 2007

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Sculpture's Crack

Description 

Pin-scarred crack leads ominously to the long and strenuous lieback, although jamming could be employed, it's a race against time to the final (and cruxy) squirm over the top through the slot on the right.

Location 

Sculture's Crack Wall - see Jordan's photo.

Protection 

Top rope, bolts on top - inspect before use.


Photos of Sculpture's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Leading Sculptures Crack
Leading Sculptures Crack
Julie at the mid-point
Julie at the mid-point
Erik Chimpo Anderson topping out after a beautiful...
Erik Chimpo Anderson topping out after a beautiful...
Thi-Ly Hayes sends Sculpture's Crack, 1991. See an...
Thi-Ly Hayes sends Sculpture's Crack, 1991. See an...

Comments on Sculpture's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan McHale
Dec 4, 2012

I top roped this in 1970
Dan McHale top roping and successfully freeing lef...
Dan McHale top roping and successfully freeing left Sculptored Crack in 1970.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 21, 2015

Looking good Dan - thanks for posting.
By dnaiscool
Jul 14, 2015

Dan's 1970 free ascent has to be one of the earliest for this route. In the late 1960's and early 1970's both Sculpture's and Sand Blast were still being aid climbed with regular frequency. That's how I did them at the time. I think Robbins or Tom Higgins may have done the FFA of these, but that Sand Blast may have been a Bachar tick from the mid-70's. Kudos for the 1970 free ascent, which was hard core for the time!! Note also that there is no chalk to be seen, and that is because use of chalk in climbing was still in its infancy in 1970. Very few of us were using it at all back then, but slowly it made its way to the boulders out front where climbers would each bring a cube of the stuff to rub it on their fingers. Then you'd just leave the cube on the ground while you did a problem, and the real bummer came when someone stepped on your cube. Eventually we started putting it in tiny "Gerry" stuff sacks, and you'd clip this to your swami by the loop that cinched it closed, which did not work very well, because ever time you dipped, it would close down around your wrists. The invention of the modern chalkbag really helped...but just remember kids...it weren't always that way...
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