Sculpture's Crack Traverse V1
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Jake Olson traversing it.
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Description Originally started at Sculpture's Crack and headed right - but right to left is better IMHO... Get up onto the first good hold and then make a tough reachy move (crux) onto the main rail - follow this to Sculpture's Crack, or continue past the Crack to the alcove finish with a strenuous and dicey move left and out of it.
Location See Jordan's photo
Protection Pad and spotter.
Sculpture's Traverse, just past the 2nd crux. Tony...
| BETA PHOTO: Sculpture Traverse: follow the obvious chalk marks...
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| Comments on Sculpture's Crack Traverse |
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By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Mar 22, 2010
| Picture of Michael Reardon on Sculpture's Traverse here. |
By germsauce May 18, 2011
| i'm sorry but v-1 or v-2? my sister lives nearby so i've climbed stoney when visiting from Colorado probably 5-6 times and this is one of my favorite spots (i've yet to see a guidebook). The starting moves are pretty stout for v-2 and does this traverse go through the awkward beta-intensive moves that go 5-6 feet past the sculpture crack (past the bulge and blind reach)? If so i'd say 3+ at least for the entire traverse right to left. Thoughts? also- if anyone knows of a good source beyond MTPrj for stoney point beta please pass it along. i like this place, but feel like i'd love to know more about grades and good spots to climb. |
By Rob Gordon From: Hollywood, CA May 18, 2011 rating: V3
| The best version of the traverse IMO goes from the sit on the right through the bulge to the last hold before the tree, then back right and down into the sit again. I keep falling/slipping on the last move back into the sit, but I reckon it's probably 5.12ish. The whole thing is pretty beta intensive and pumpy, so it's hard to rate. Don't matter much though. It's a great problem whatever the rating. Urban Rock by Chris Owen is a pretty accurate guidebook except for a few notable breaks this year. |
By coreylee From: Berkeley, CA Jul 14, 2011
| Germsauce, I just visited your sister and she loved the stoney point. She has great endurance! |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Aug 4, 2011
| Thanks for the promo Rob! Once I use up Ed3 print run I'll do another edition and try and get all of the new stuff. |
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