Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Scruffy Band
|
Contact Gully T WI3-4 |
|
Not My Fault WI2-3 M3 |
|
Scruffy Band WI3 |
|
|
Scruffy Band Left WI3-4 |
|
|
Scruffy Band Right T WI3-4 |
|
|
Table Scraps WI2- |
|
|
Upper Dagger T WI3 |
|
|
Yellow Merril WI4- |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Ice, 240 ft (73 m) |
| FA: | Probably BS, back in the day |
| Page Views: | 2,046 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Mar 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A nice variation especially if the main Scruffy Band is crowded. By staying as far left as possible, you can avoid knocking ice on any party climbing Scruffy Band.
The initial low angle slab of ice is sometimes thick enough to allow a belay at the base of the steeper ice (as well as a handy down climb if using a single 70m rope). Several (4 or 5) steep sections of ice punctuated by lower angle stances eventually joining Scruffy Band on the far left side of the low angle apron below the final steep pillars.
Take care if you cross over to the right in the shallow gully near the top (below the final pillar(s)) if there is a party below on Scruffy Band. Dislodged ice tends to funnel right down into the main narrow section of Scruffy Band and if someone was on that section, falling ice would mostly likely nail them.
The initial low angle slab of ice is sometimes thick enough to allow a belay at the base of the steeper ice (as well as a handy down climb if using a single 70m rope). Several (4 or 5) steep sections of ice punctuated by lower angle stances eventually joining Scruffy Band on the far left side of the low angle apron below the final steep pillars.
Take care if you cross over to the right in the shallow gully near the top (below the final pillar(s)) if there is a party below on Scruffy Band. Dislodged ice tends to funnel right down into the main narrow section of Scruffy Band and if someone was on that section, falling ice would mostly likely nail them.
Location
Located just on the other side of the rock buttress left of the standard start to the Scruffy Band.
Protection
Standard ice screw rack with a mix of longer and shorter depending on the thickness of the ice.
Belay at the short pine tree at the top of the route. Can rappel to the top of the low angle slab with a single 70m rope, then down climb to the ground. Or, rappel with two 60 meter ropes all the way to the ground. Or, rappel (or carefully down climb) to the bigger pine tree above the overhanging rock, then, rappel from there to the ground with a single 70, or double 60's. Or, walk off left.
Belay at the short pine tree at the top of the route. Can rappel to the top of the low angle slab with a single 70m rope, then down climb to the ground. Or, rappel with two 60 meter ropes all the way to the ground. Or, rappel (or carefully down climb) to the bigger pine tree above the overhanging rock, then, rappel from there to the ground with a single 70, or double 60's. Or, walk off left.
0 Comments