To quote the first ascentionist in his new guidebook, "this wider-than-fists crack shows why 'Sport Climbers Rough Up Bad.'"
This fun line starts in a broken ramp system on the north face of the Spaceship/Challenger, and ascends an obvious wide crack with a dogleg to the right.
The boulder-y crux comes early, pulling up off the ramp and establishing on the face/crack system (blowing this little problem could lead to some knocked-up ankles). The crack is too wide for fists, but some features on the face and the juggy dogleg of the crack keep things moderate. Pull over the lip of the wall at the 35' mark to belay on East Face/Challenger. Continue on ~110 feet of 5.5 face climbing to the top on that route.
S.C.R.U.B. is on the North Face of the Challenger/Spaceship formation. The line is very obvious near the end of the vertical section of the Challenger hiking uphill or down.
Cams in the #4 Friend to #4 Camalot range (old or new, probably) protect the meat of this line well.
The crack continues across the East Face, where a belay could be had on #3 Camalot-sized pieces.
Chris Plesko topping out on S.C.R.U.B.
A little scale on crack size and length. Photo by ...
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 22, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This line is great, just wish it was 3x longer! I had 2 #4 C4s, an old #3.5 Camalot and 2 #3 C4s. This was enough to protect the line well and easily build a belay at the top to watch my second. You can certainly use something bigger, new #5/old #4.5' instead of the #3.5 though. Just bring several pieces if you don't want to hassle with leapfrogging or it's your OS limit.
I almost feel it's soft for the grade, but I can't make up my mind. Maybe depends on how much you're used to wideness.