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Routes in Mormon Canyon
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Ambulance Ride T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Backslider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Damn Yellow Rope! C1-2 |
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Devil Isn’t Red, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Directions from a Moroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Drinking Kool-Aid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Duck for Cover T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Earth Angel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Faith In The Stone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fin - South Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Full Contact Origami T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Goliath T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Holy Sin T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hot Hookers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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John Burcham Spire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Kicked out of Heaven T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Latter-Day Sands T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Made In The Shade T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mormon Mission T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nameless Tower - Jacob's Ladder, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plural Pleasures T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Rich and Famous Towers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Scrotum Pole T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Spirit Compass T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Starlord T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tim Toula Spire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Top Shelf Spire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Touched By An Angel T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | E. Webster, B. Becker |
| Page Views: | 2,332 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kole DeCou on Feb 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The Scrotum Pole competes with Secret Spire for the most erect spire in Sedona, especially when viewed from the north-west. The route is kinda scary, but is 90% on pretty good rock with only 3 feet of true choss. The R-rated part is steep face climbing on solid rock with a 20 ft. ledge fall potential. The route description in the Toula Guide is wrong, but the location is correct.
Start at the notch on the east side.
Pitch 1: 5.9 60' Climb up cracks to the limestone band. Surmount the limestone either the splitter hand crack on the right, or the chimney on the left (looks way easier.) If you do the hand crack variation (fun) you then have to do a difficult traverse to get back on track. Belay on top of the limestone at a tree.
Pitch 2: 5.3 (net zero feet) There is a big block blocking your westward progress. Climb up one side and down the other and establish a belay again on the limestone band but on the other side of the block. Belay takes finger sized and a bolt.
Pitch 3: 5.10R 70' Traverse left past 2 bolts into a crack. This crack pinches down to a seam. Climb good varnish into some dried mud. If worried about rope drag build a belay behind a pillar on the ledge after the mud. Otherwise continue up to a drilled pin, traverse right and up on nice solid holds that keep getting steeper all the way to the top (Wild! 5.10R). Belay from the summit block.
Start at the notch on the east side.
Pitch 1: 5.9 60' Climb up cracks to the limestone band. Surmount the limestone either the splitter hand crack on the right, or the chimney on the left (looks way easier.) If you do the hand crack variation (fun) you then have to do a difficult traverse to get back on track. Belay on top of the limestone at a tree.
Pitch 2: 5.3 (net zero feet) There is a big block blocking your westward progress. Climb up one side and down the other and establish a belay again on the limestone band but on the other side of the block. Belay takes finger sized and a bolt.
Pitch 3: 5.10R 70' Traverse left past 2 bolts into a crack. This crack pinches down to a seam. Climb good varnish into some dried mud. If worried about rope drag build a belay behind a pillar on the ledge after the mud. Otherwise continue up to a drilled pin, traverse right and up on nice solid holds that keep getting steeper all the way to the top (Wild! 5.10R). Belay from the summit block.
Location
Park at Mormon Canyon trail head, as for Earth Angel. Drop into the wash, and hike up it for 1/2 hour. Just before Goliath/Mushroom, there is a huge and prominant 400' tall prow of rock on the right. Find the wash heading up the right side of this prow (opposite side from the Mushroom gulley). Scramble up this wash until you see the Scrotum Pole on the right. You'll know it when you see it. Start at the high point of the notch.
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