The Scrotum Pole competes with Secret Spire for the most erect spire in Sedona, especially when viewed from the north-west. The route is kinda scary, but is 90% on pretty good rock with only 3 feet of true choss. The R-rated part is steep face climbing on solid rock with a 20 ft. ledge fall potential. The route description in the Toula Guide is wrong, but the location is correct.
Start at the notch on the east side.
Pitch 1: 5.9 60' Climb up cracks to the limestone band. Surmount the limestone either the splitter hand crack on the right, or the chimney on the left (looks way easier.) If you do the hand crack variation (fun) you then have to do a difficult traverse to get back on track. Belay on top of the limestone at a tree.
Pitch 2: 5.3 (net zero feet) There is a big block blocking your westward progress. Climb up one side and down the other and establish a belay again on the limestone band but on the other side of the block. Belay takes finger sized and a bolt.
Pitch 3: 5.10R 70' Traverse left past 2 bolts into a crack. This crack pinches down to a seam. Climb good varnish into some dried mud. If worried about rope drag build a belay behind a pillar on the ledge after the mud. Otherwise continue up to a drilled pin, traverse right and up on nice solid holds that keep getting steeper all the way to the top (Wild! 5.10R). Belay from the summit block.
Park at Mormon Canyon trail head, as for Earth Angel. Drop into the wash, and hike up it for 1/2 hour. Just before Goliath/Mushroom, there is a huge and prominant 400' tall prow of rock on the right. Find the wash heading up the right side of this prow (opposite side from the Mushroom gulley). Scramble up this wash until you see the Scrotum Pole on the right. You'll know it when you see it. Start at the high point of the notch.
2 each black Alien to #3.5 Camalot, 1 #5 or #6 Camalot, nuts. 2 ropes or 1 70m rope. Webbing, bolt kit optional. We replaced the webbing and the mankier of the 2 bolts (2/26/07), the remaining original is a little iffy.
From: flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
great route, some choss, not really that bad a run out. We had the big gear but you really don't need it, I'd go back again and leave the #5 at home.
|By Kole DeCou|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2007
The 5 isn't needed, but leading that pitch I was happy to have it since it protects the first move after the traverse. Not a hard move, but still... I then back-cleaned it and used it as weight training for the rest of the pitch. Watch out for rope-drag on this pitch. I'd sugest putting a sling on the second bolt, back-cleaning the first couple pieces after the traverse, and putting a sling on the pin up high. This might help. You're probably going to hit the ledge anyways if you come off high on the crux, so you might as well have less drag. (don't worry, anyone who sport cimbs much will feel very solid and safe during the runout. I on the other hand was wigged out because the holds were too big.)
|By A. Frost|
Jun 16, 2009
FA was actually by Ed and Bryan Becker (of Hallucinogen Wall and Denali Diamond infamy)
|By Paul Davidson|
Jun 18, 2009
As I recall, Ed and Bryan did this thinking it was Earth Angel.
Gnaw, I'm kidding. But I do seem to recall that they hiked in there to do EA and then saw this and thought they'd bag a first instead.
|By Jake Dayley|
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Did this route a few weeks ago and thought it was pretty good. Definitely not R rated with modern gear. We added another anchor bolt down low in more solid rock because the existing bolts were not safe. We equalized the original bolt, Kole and Mark's bolt, and our new one with some cordelette and now it's reasonably bomber. I'd say doubles to #3 for the rack and one 70m rope. As Kole says, watch the rope drag on the final pitch. Enjoy!