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 ADVANCED
Narrows Proper
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Art of Breaking, The S 
Cantaloupe S 
Cement Garden, The T,TR 
Chiroptophobia T 
Choss Ninja S 
Fudge Judge T 
Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 
Other People's Crack T 
People's Crack T 
PWTHFRWDLGS T 
Red Faction S 
Screwheads S 
Sloppy Seconds S 
Snap, Crackle, Pop T 
Village Idiot, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Screwheads 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Lee Sheftel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: Pinklebear on May 30, 2003

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Ben Collett at the base of Screwheads.

Description 

This is the left of the two sport routes in the corridor at the Narrows Proper, about 15 feet downhill and left of Red Faction. It climbs up a hard-ish three-bolt boulder problem to a ledge with a small tree, then up the face, sometimes touching the left arete (a little mossy still), to a double-bolt anchor.

The gully is kind of a nasty hang, so I drilled a belay bolt in the opposite side of the corridor. At least it gives you somewhere to clip off your water bottle and shoes, so they don't roll down the hill.

Boulder up to a good horizontal, and clip the first bolt. Ease into the boulder problem, clipping bolt two, then make technical moves on sidepulls to gain the third bolt and the crux (crimpy). A huck to the ledge gives you a nice rest, then climb the faint right-facing corner to the sustained headwall above with its perfect granite pinches and edges. Nine bolts total, with plenty of technical, just-past-vertical climbing.

The name? Taken from these famous lines from Taxi Driver, below. I think it's just a good damn quote, plus you kind of have to "stand up" to do the crux.

Travis Bickle: Listen, you fuckers, you screwheads. Here is a man who would not take it anymore. A man who stood up against the scum, the c***s, the dogs, the filth, the shit. Here is a man who stood up.


Protection 

9 draws, plus two more draws for the anchor--11 total. Also, it helps to have some lockers and slings to clip to a belay bolt in the gully.



Comments on Screwheads Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2004

Why did you feel in necessary to censor "c***s" but none of your other language?

By david goldstein
Jun 30, 2008

Great route name -- some of us old timers get the allusion without the footnote.