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 ADVANCED
Valley Massif
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Hair Done That T 
Best Man T,TR 
Bill Steal T 
Bittersweet T 
Dirty Joke, The T 
Falcon's Lair T 
Hair of the Dog T 
Hammer T 
Hooker T 
Internal Combustion T 
King of Coney Island T,S 
Ladder T 
Monkey Wrench T 
Nail T 
Powder Puff T 
Quits T 
Screw T 
Slut, The T 
Social Security Ran Out T 
Soft Touch T 
Sunny Day T 
Surprise T 
Tail Spin T 
Tea Grinder T 
Tool Or Die T 
Zipper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Screw 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,405
Submitted By: Skip Harper on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Katherine Chumacero loving the killer hands on pit...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on the Northwest face. Screw is the second large crack system to the right of the large roof. The route starts with a blocky crack that leads to a chimney about thirty feet from the start. Once through the chimney stay to the right and follow the hand crack to a large ledge. Belay from this ledge. The first 15' after this ledge is offwidth. Cross the nearly horizontal section and finish the climb with a perfect hand crack. Walk off to the left.

Protection 

I recommend a #4 Camalot to protect the offwidth crack at the start of the second pitch.


Photos of Screw Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin pondering his next move into the chimney.
Kevin pondering his next move into the chimney.
Justin Knaus on the 2nd pitch of Screw, jammin' gr...
Justin Knaus on the 2nd pitch of Screw, jammin' gr...
Tyson Arp in the chimney section of pitch one.
Tyson Arp in the chimney section of pitch one.
Stemming through the Hand Cracks after the chimney
Stemming through the Hand Cracks after the chimney
Alex climbing the first pitch.
Alex climbing the first pitch.

Comments on Screw Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 1, 2010
By Hill
Apr 30, 2002

We found the chimney on pitch 1 is more easily tackled right side in. Placing pro is harder this way but it's possible to exit the chimney earlier on face holds by going right side in. The final 5.6 crack is positively top of the lin
By Nikos
Jun 24, 2002

4-star route! Has a little bit of everything, chimney, fantastic hand cracks and some (easy) offwidth. Right side into the chimney works well.
By Tyson S Arp
Aug 18, 2002

Love this route!
By Angela Arp
From: Omaha Ne
Aug 28, 2002

It has some of everything. If you want to climb this it will take all you have!
By shad O'Neel
Jul 14, 2004

the chimney is the gateway to superb handcracks. upon topping out, we couldnt resist the short but sweet cracks that take you up another level, still possible to scramble off. IT probably ups the grade to 8+, but is a great addition.
By nolteboy
Jul 19, 2005

Classic. Probably the most travelled route on the NW face. The 5.6 finger and hand crack is surely one of the best of its grade at the 'Voo.
By Colin Coulson
Sep 12, 2005

Excellent!
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 12, 2005

Agreed, this is a fantastic route and worth the nice walk out.
By John Korfmacher
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 12, 2006

Nice route--good jams, good pro, chimney section was tough but it required only 3-4 moves and was well-protected. The rap chain stations indicated in the guidebook for 70' rappels no longer are there but the 120' station is usable. Walkoff east is just as easy.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 1, 2008

You should be able to use a 60m rope to get down to the base of zipper, then downclimb down to the base of Hammer, and then off the formation. Kind of a hybrid descent, and a little scary in spots, but not too bad.
By Mike Regall
Nov 1, 2010

We climbed this route on Halloween. (*Significantly colder than Colorado Front Range.) Fun chimney and hand crack, great exposure and view to the west from the top. Was able to watch a beautiful sunset.