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Slo Pony Wall
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Peanut Butter and Jelly 
Screw Loose 

Screw Loose 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 230', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Ken H on Mar 18, 2011
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Starts in the cave marked by the green arrow, easi...

Description 

This is an extension to Peanut Butter & Jelly.

Pitch 1 5.8 (60 ft) - Climb Peanut Butter and Jelly

Pitch 2 5.10c (70 ft) - The Classic Pitch! From the anchor in the cave at the top of PB&J climb on tuffa features out the cave where is narrows down to about 4 ft wide and pull on to the face of the wall and continue up.

Pitch 2 5.10a (30 ft) - climb up the shallow corner and up to a sloping belay ledge

Pitch 3 5.10a (70 ft) - climb up the slab to the left and up some steeper climbing to the anchors.
I recommend linking pitch 3 and 4 and lowering to the anchor at the top of pitch 3 to belay the second.

Difficult back clipping will be required to get back to the anchor on top of P1.


Location 

From the bottom of the cave in the center of Slo Pony Wall to the cave on the top of Slo Pony Wall.


Protection 

P1 10 bolts, P2 13 bolts, P3 6 bolts, P4 10 bolts.



Photos of Screw Loose Slideshow Add Photo
Anja and Ken on Screw loose.
Anja and Ken on Screw loose.
Looking down from mid way up P1 of screw loose.
Looking down from mid way up P1 of screw loose.
Views of Ha Long Bay from Screw loose.
Views of Ha Long Bay from Screw loose.
up and out of cave
up and out of cave
Comments on Screw Loose Add Comment
Show which comments
By greg t
Aug 2, 2012

One of my favorite climbs of all time! The name comes from the first ascentionists ( eric and matt of slo pony ) forgetting the wrench, climbing and wrapping off loose bolts. Was proud to be the 3rd ascent of this, after they went back to tighten the bolts. Tiger Beach is a great place to get kicked off of.. but I guess you had to be there.

By ollieon
Feb 2, 2013

I recommend linking up pitch 2 and 3. Conserve draws (bolts are often within reach of each other).