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Screaming Meaney 

Screaming Meaney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 515'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1973, 1976
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Jun 20, 2011
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Pitch 1, Screaming Meaney

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Description 

P1 (5.7- G) Climb using right most vertical seam angling to the right of the overlap about 25 feet up. Move up and slightly left over small ledges. Friction climb to belay (fixed).

P2 (5.7- PG) Climb up to fixed pin at left end of overlap, then climb up and left to a seam, then up (and slightly left) to the crack and climb it to ledge with a fixed anchor.

P3 (5.8 PG, Var 5.4 X) Traverse right 40', up to a stance below an overlap. Climb short section of slab to ledge (crux). [Variation 5.4 X climbs clean slap left of water streak] Climb remaining slab to fixed anchor.


Location 

Same start as The Matrix


Protection 

Mixed trad with some bolts



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Pitch 2 (pin) on Screaming Meaney
Pitch 2 (pin) on Screaming Meaney
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jun 20, 2011

We only did P1 and 2, trying to linkup with the last 2 pitches of The Matrix (which failed, P3 of The Matrix is rated 5.6 but our leader couldn't commit and traversed back to us... he said it looked harder than the 5.7 we just climbed).

When I came here to add my tick I was very surprised this route had not been entered. P1 is good friction but nothing special, P2 was a great mix of friction and some really unique moves using seams and the crack. A couple moves had me stemming, ON SLAB! lol Of the two pitches we climbed, pitch 2 was voted by all 4 in our party as the better. We liked Little Finger a lot, but move for move Pitch 2 on Screaming Meaney was easily the best climbing of the day.