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South-Facing Wall
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Screaming Lobsters 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Ross
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 5, 2012
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is much better than it looks, despite its short stature. The crux comes at you fast, so stick clipping the first or second bolt is a good idea. Climb up on positive pockets with almost nothing for your feet. Make a move to the obvious jug and then pull some more awesome pockets to the finish. The finish is a bit run, and may be a bit dirty if it has not been done in a while.


Location 

This is the right most line on the south facing wall where there approach trail meets the wall. There's also another unknown line about 2 feet to the left that joins this route at the 3rd bolt.


Protection 

4 bolts, chains.



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By KevinM
Mar 21, 2014

I'm pretty sure Screaming Lobsters is the left version. The right version is a little bit easier, maybe 11b/c.