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The Bookmark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Backflip 
Bellyflop 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Sojourn 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

Screamin' Eagles 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eli Helmuth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: Eli Helmuth on Apr 25, 2006
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Lynn Hill at the first bolt on Wigglin. Screamin'...

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Description 

Getting past the first and third bolts could be the crux - a bit of a long reach at the first bolt. Very interesting holds, great position, and outstanding orange granite make this a different style from your typical Lumpy outing. On the FA, I climbed the runout but easy (dirty) face on the left edge of the arete above the route. One could also step far right at the ledge and finish on the last three bolts of Wigglin' (12a) for a bit more action.


Location 

Start 15" left of Wigglin' Fingies on the east face of Bookmark Pinnacle. Rappel or lower off the two-bolt anchor on Wigglin' -20m.


Protection 

Small cams can be helpful to reach the first bolt and 1 or 2 cams in the 2" range above the bolts to protect the runout finish to the anchors on Wigglin'.



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Third bolt crux on Screamin'.
Third bolt crux on Screamin'.
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