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Transcendence 

Screamer Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nick Brash
Page Views: 1,676
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Apr 23, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Screamer Crack

Description 

I had one #4 camalot and my buddy had a second. Neither of use had any experience on wider cracks, but we both remembered reading something about "walking cams." We managed to convince ourselves that we could get a few #3s in then walk the #4s the last 1/4 of the route. Twenty feet up the #3s were tipped out, so I started walking the cams. Things were going well I got pink tricam in and maybe another small piece. The climbing up and down was getting old, but it was working. Then the #4s tipped out...

I made it to the top without incident, a week later a buddy proved the name apt. Offwidth technique is not a must, but it would probably make things easier.


Location 

Screamer crack is located about 100 feet right of Super crack and about 100 feet left of the chimney (Mommas Squeeze box).



Photos of Screamer Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Abigail on Screamer Crack. You can see part of Mushrooms in the top right.
BETA PHOTO: Abigail on Screamer Crack. You can see part of Mus...
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By Dave West
From: Roanoke, VA
Sep 17, 2008

FA by the notorious Nick Brash

By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is a fun crack which I would recommend doing if you've got huge gear. I'm planning a trip to Vedauwoo, so I happened to have 2 BD #6 Camalots, 2 BD #5 Camalots, and 2 BD #4 Camalots. I used them all in the 80 ft. of climbing. The cool thing about this is that it's not a brute strength route, nor is it particularly uncomfortable or awkward. I think that there's a small section of layback up higher, but what worked for me is stemming through the area that's as slick as grease from everybody laybacking. If you keep your eyes open to the possibilities this climb lends, you should have no problem.