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 ADVANCED
Bath Rock - West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Colossus S 
Donini's Crack T 
Gemini S 
Loch Ness Monster S 
Maximum Impact T,TR 
Private Idaho T 
Rollercoaster S,TR 
Scream Machine T,S 
Taranula S 
Whip, The S 

Scream Machine 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,799
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 25, 2004

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Description 

AKA: Coffee and Cornflakes

Also referred to as Coffee and Cornflakes, This route is located on the far right side of the back side of Bath Rock. It is the bolted route two feet right of the actual Coffee and Cornflakes (5.11X, 80's) The first bolt is 35ft up. If you start on the right there is no gear. You can start as for Donini's Crack and clip the Gemini bolt on the way to the first bolt.

This is a fun steep 5.10, and very pumpy for the 5.10a grade. 3 or 4 bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

Draws, optional gear



Photos of Scream Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Tick tock, tick tock...
Tick tock, tick tock...
Cory trying to piece together the moves while hanging from the second bolt.
Cory trying to piece together the moves while hang...
hueco time
hueco time
Comments on Scream Machine Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 29, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2005

When did "Coffee and Corflakes" become scream machine?

By Lee Jensen
Jun 30, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I used the name as specified in the Caldarone book. If I got it wrong, or Caldarone is wrong lets get it fixed.

By Lee Jensen
Jul 3, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I went and looked it up again. According to Calderone's book, Coffee and Cornflakes is the unbolted route directly left of Scream Machine. However, as I meantioned before, perhaps he was in error.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

3 bolts to the anchor. The lower unprotected face is easy, so don't let that dissuade you, as the upper face is fantastic, pumpy, and continuous.

By Lee Jensen
Sep 5, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The lower half of the route has no protection, but is easy 5.6 moves. A ledge separates the lower and upper half. The upper half is protected by four bolts. If you blow it clipping the second bolt there is a good chance that you will deck on the midway ledge. However, the crux is considered between the second and third bolts. Solid two bolt chain anchor on top.

Scream Machine is the last bolt route to the right, about 100 feet, of Colossus on the north west side of Bath rock. Start up the pocketed lower 5.6 portion of the route to a bowl shaped ledge before the 5.10 portion of the climb. Reach high and clip the first bolt. The route then becomes slightly overhung as you reach for solid holds to the right of the bolts. After the third clip the angle becomes positive and the difficulty eases.

By Lee Jensen
Sep 12, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I don't get why my original posting was overwritten by Guy's and degraded to a comment. The Calderone guide calls the route I posted "Scream Machine" and according to Nathan so does the Bigham guide. From these two sources I can only assume that "Coffee and Cornflakes" is the gear route to the left. It seems that the only one stating that these are the same two routes is "Anonymous Coward". What gives?

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

On the subject of this route being R rated. I was fortunate that I pulled the cord through and one of my partners had already slung a horn on the ledge above allowing me to clip it. However, I didn't feel that getting there was all that difficult and the business portion of the route is further up on the steep headwall.

Optional slung horn, 3 bolts and chain anchors using positive rock the entire way.

Excellent!

Susan

By Brian in SLC
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Actually, I think its R rated because if you blow the clip at the second bolt and fall, you'd probably smack the ledge below. I place a cam or two above the first bolt (to the left in the horizontal crack) which helps protect the semi cruxy moves to the second bolt. Used to be a gear lead by leaning left and milking the cracks for pro. Great route. Short but stiff and sweet.

By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
May 12, 2008

Possible to place a #2 camalot in the hole below the first bolt on the midway ledge. For the faint at heart....

By dave bingham
Oct 11, 2011

"Coffee & Cornflakes" was originally a stupid X rated route I did in the '80's. For whatever reason I never learned the actual name the Jackson folk gave the bolted version (which is about 2 feet away from C&C). People started calling the bolt route C&C - and it just stuck.

I'll check with the FA folks about the "Scream Machine" name.

By zoso
Oct 11, 2011

Thanks for the clarification Dave. Never could quite figer that one out.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

You can also place a #3 in the horizontal crack before the first bolt. If it weren't for the sketchy and awkward start to this climb. It'd be 3 stars for sure. The moves up the 5.10 section (the second half) are superb though!

By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 29, 2013

Still unsure the safest way to the first bolt on this route - I tip-toed my way up a slab to climbers right of the start. Another option would be to climb directly up and clip a runner through the first bolt of the climb to the immediate left. It did feel sketchy getting to the first bolt proper. I got some good advice to bring a #2 cam to protect the move to the first bolt as even after a huge runout you still need to get on the face to make the clip. It's not hard, but it's death if you fall. You'll also probably deck on the ledge if you fall while clipping the second bolt. Once above it's fantastic sharp, pumpy face climbing.