Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The Headstone
|
[Redacted] T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
[Redacted] S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Haus Flake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Io S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | unknown (head crew?) |
| Page Views: | 2,299 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | montay on May 17, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
To find this great route, please follow the directions to get to the [Headstone]. At the base of the [Headstone], approximately center of the face (right of [Topaz] approx 100 ft), there are 2 bolted slab routes just to the right of a right facing flake. The left route of these is the 5.9 slab route that approaches the awesome looking 12d stemming route on the upper headwall. The righthand bolted route is [Scratchy Face].
Move up easy rock with good holds, sometimes through slightly wet or dirty material. The climbing steadily gets more difficult. After approximately 4 or 5 bolts, the moves will get more tenuous as you gun for a ledge/stance. When you gain the stance, spend some time looking at the gorgeous laser cut slab in front of you, and try to piece together a series of pinches and toe work on little crystals and edges to get you to the next ledge. This bit, while only being 10b, will have you focusing pretty intensely! When you have reached the good ledge, above you will be a flake-roof. Getting established at the roof is a bit more difficult than it looks. My partner went left on small face holds to get there. I went slightly right and pinched the roof-flake and pulled into an undercling. In either case, be aware of the lichen on the face or you will be hanging on the end of the rope faster than you can blink. Pull the roof via the usual slab overlap techniques and head to the anchors on the big ledge.
Descent: Several options. With two ropes, rappel to ground from anchors. With a 60 meter rope, you can rap to about 15 feet above the ground and downclimb. Other option, walk climber's right on the ledge to a large block with a wide crack. Climb up the block to some anchors on the main wall. Rap from these anchors down 50 feet to another set of anchors. Rap from second set of anchors to ground.
Move up easy rock with good holds, sometimes through slightly wet or dirty material. The climbing steadily gets more difficult. After approximately 4 or 5 bolts, the moves will get more tenuous as you gun for a ledge/stance. When you gain the stance, spend some time looking at the gorgeous laser cut slab in front of you, and try to piece together a series of pinches and toe work on little crystals and edges to get you to the next ledge. This bit, while only being 10b, will have you focusing pretty intensely! When you have reached the good ledge, above you will be a flake-roof. Getting established at the roof is a bit more difficult than it looks. My partner went left on small face holds to get there. I went slightly right and pinched the roof-flake and pulled into an undercling. In either case, be aware of the lichen on the face or you will be hanging on the end of the rope faster than you can blink. Pull the roof via the usual slab overlap techniques and head to the anchors on the big ledge.
Descent: Several options. With two ropes, rappel to ground from anchors. With a 60 meter rope, you can rap to about 15 feet above the ground and downclimb. Other option, walk climber's right on the ledge to a large block with a wide crack. Climb up the block to some anchors on the main wall. Rap from these anchors down 50 feet to another set of anchors. Rap from second set of anchors to ground.
11 Comments