Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is located to the left of Touch n' Go. It can be toproped from the chain anchor below the 2nd half of Touch n' Go. The route starts under the roof, and a couple of strenous moves about 11c I think get you situated in the roof. It is a strong pull over the roof and then your typical Eldo face climb. This is slabby with little for feet with highly technical and balancy moves.
When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceiling.
I also place a green Alien in a horizontal seam above the last bolt & a couple RPs in the corner before the anchor. A medium stopper (#9?) works before 1st bolt or stick clip.