Scratch and Sniff 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Stu Richie, Mark Rolofson |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Mike McKinnon on Aug 21, 2004 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is located to the left of Touch n' Go. It can be toproped from the chain anchor below the 2nd half of Touch n' Go. The route starts under the roof, and a couple of strenous moves about 11c I think get you situated in the roof. It is a strong pull over the roof and then your typical Eldo face climb. This is slabby with little for feet with highly technical and balancy moves.
Protection [4] bolts to chain anchors.
| Comments on Scratch and Sniff |
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By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
| You can easily toprope this route, although I recommend leading it. TR'ing it spoils the mild spice factor. |
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Dec 7, 2009
| Mark R. and I did the FA in the late '80s right before we went up to Mt. Hooker. |
By Scott Bennett
Dec 8, 2012
| Actually four bolts, and a finger-sized cam would protect the move to the first bolt. |
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 2, 2013
rating: 5.12a
| When I first led this climb in 1989, the hold at the lip of the roof was better and clipping the 2nd bolt was not so bad. I returned in 1995, after Ken Trout replaced the bolts that had been chopped in the 1989 bolt war. The handhold at the lip had partially broken off leaving a smaller, worse hold and a harder, scary clip. I recommend prehanging a long sling on this bolt so it can be clipped from under the roof. A long extension pole is needed. It really needs another bolt added in the ceiling.
I also place a green Alien in a horizontal seam above the last bolt & a couple RPs in the corner before the anchor. A medium stopper (#9?) works before 1st bolt or stick clip. |
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