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This route climbs a large, left-facing dihedral at the upper end of Lower Security Risk, about 100 feet north of Security Risk and about 30 feet north of the prominent dihedral that is The Prism.A bolted sport route, Eldo Of The People, climbs burly overhangs just to the right of this route.Begin at a large block separated from the main wall by about three inches. Place one or two large cams in that fracture and hand traverse right.Stand up when you can reach an undercling with your left hand. Use that to get a bomber hand jam with your right.This is a fairly strenuous stance with the gear at your feet so a ground fall might be possible if you blow the next placement (#1 Camalot locks in nicely) but once you make it, the next move around the corner gets you to easy ground immediately.The rest of the dihedral looked pointless so I cut right at a crack in the arete to join the aforementioned sport route for a couple of bolts and climbed to the anchor on The Prism. Otherwise the route is not much more than a boulder problem.Rossiter's topo rates the first crux and the moves past the bolts both at 10a, which seemed about right.
Two cams three inches or larger, one hand sized cam (#1 or #2 Camalot) one or two smaller cams and two draws for recommended variation.
Linking up to the arete moves of Eldo of the Peopl...
Clipping the 2nd bolt on the arete. The bolts are ...
CM on the opening moves.
Setting up for the mantle.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The interesting moves on this one don't last long, but they are fun. I found a #2 Camalot best to protect the crux move to the left after standing up on the block. A #1 seemed a bit small.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Apr 15, 2012
Cutting right to the bolted arÍte after the low crux makes this quite a fun and worthy route.