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> Lower Merced Ri…
> Ao. This & That Cliff
Scram
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Ao. This and That Cliff
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Cramming T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Robin T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Said and Done T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scram S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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This and That T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) V0 4 |
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Whim T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Ken Yager, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,489 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Vlad S on Nov 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
One of the best sport routes in the valley in its grade. The rock on this pitch is exquisite with many swirly pinches, slopers, golden flakes and even pockets. It's fairly sustained and straight-forward at mid 5.11 for the entire pitch. The short crux comes right at the roof where a multitude of poor hand holds and dearth of footholds on a hard-to-read sequence quickly drain your forearms. It's hard to pull through this move, but once you know what to do - it's not bad at all.
This one bakes in the sun, so it's great for the winter when temps are in the 50s. Unfortunately the steep sand/bushwack approach might prove to be the crux for some folks. Expect 20-25 min to get to the base and don't bother looking for a trail. Just hike straight up from the house-sized boulder 1.5 mi from the 120/140 junction (parking is another 0.1 mi farther down canyon). If you take the approach toward "Tips" and walk along the base - you'll end up bushwacking way more and also without much of a trail for most of it.
This one bakes in the sun, so it's great for the winter when temps are in the 50s. Unfortunately the steep sand/bushwack approach might prove to be the crux for some folks. Expect 20-25 min to get to the base and don't bother looking for a trail. Just hike straight up from the house-sized boulder 1.5 mi from the 120/140 junction (parking is another 0.1 mi farther down canyon). If you take the approach toward "Tips" and walk along the base - you'll end up bushwacking way more and also without much of a trail for most of it.
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