Scottish Winter Climbing
Elevation: | 698 ft |
GPS: |
57.11239, -4.6912 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 17,616 total · 130/month |
Shared By: | Nick Russell on Mar 1, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
Description
Though small in stature compared to other mountainous regions, the Scottish highlands are a seriously challenging environment, with all the hazards of any alpine range. Don't underestimate the potential for avalanche, cornices, storms, etc. The most reliable weather forecast is the met office mountain weather forecast and an avalanche forecast for major regions is provided by the sais
The most popular areas are the North face of Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, Crag Meagaidh and the Cairngorms, and there is enough in just these areas to keep you busy for a lifetime! Further afield (and mostly further North), isolated corries reward the more intrepid climber.
Like trad routes in Britain, the Scottish winter grading system (used throughout the UK) can seem a bit of an enigma on first acquaintance. It again has two parts, with similar meanings to the trad counterparts. The first is a progression in Roman numerals (I, II, III, IV,...), denoting the "overall severity" of the climb. This can be increased not just by technical difficulty, but by sustained sequences, poor protection/belays, or high commitment. The second is a progression in Arabic numerals (1, 2, 3,...), and denotes just how technically difficult the crux of the route is. It makes no concession for a short vs. sustained sequence, or the protection at the crux: it is simply the technical difficulty.
Getting There
You can fly into Inverness (very close to the Cairngorms) or Glasgow, then drive or take public transit. If driving from South of the border, the M6 and M74 take you as far as Glasgow. From there, the A82 takes you North to Fort William (the main hub for Ben Nevis/Glen Coe, or the A9 takes you over to the Cairngorms. Both Fort William and the Cairngorms can easily be reached from either Inverness or Glasgow by bus or train.
Guidebooks/Maps
The standard maps (as for most of Britain) are produced by the Ordnance Survey in 1:25000 and 1:50000 scales. Since a lot of Scottish winter climbing is very remote, it is recommended that every party should carry a 1:25000 scale map and compass.
Classic Climbing Routes at Scottish Winter
Weather Averages
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