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Scottish winter climbing

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Ben Nevis 

Scottish winter climbing  


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Location: 57.1124, -4.6912 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Mar 1, 2013
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Soloing Eastern traverse. Hard snow and a ledge du...

Description 

Scotland in the colder months offers a wealth of winter climbing, in a variety of styles: from blue-green water ice, to routes mostly relying on frozen turf, to cutting-edge mixed climbs. The conditions and weather are notoriously fickle, meaning nothing is guaranteed, but some of the north-facing gullies are the best bet for reliable climbing.

Though small in stature compared to other mountainous regions, the Scottish highlands are a seriously challenging environment, with all the hazards of any alpine range. Don't underestimate the potential for avalanche, cornices, storms, etc. The most reliable weather forecast is the met office mountain weather forecast and an avalanche forecast for major regions is provided by the sais

The most popular areas are the North face of Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, Crag Meagaidh and the Cairngorms, and there is enough in just these areas to keep you busy for a lifetime! Further afield (and mostly further North), isolated corries reward the more intrepid climber.

Like trad routes in Britain, the Scottish winter grading system (used throughout the UK) can seem a bit of an enigma on first acquaintance. It again has two parts, with similar meanings to the trad counterparts. The first is a progression in Roman numerals (I, II, III, IV,...), denoting the "overall severity" of the climb. This can be increased not just by technical difficulty, but by sustained sequences, poor protection/belays, or high commitment. The second is a progression in Arabic numerals (1, 2, 3,...), and denotes just how technically difficult the crux of the route is. It makes no concession for a short vs. sustained sequence, or the protection at the crux: it is simply the technical difficulty.

Getting There 

You can fly into Inverness (very close to the Cairngorms) or Glasgow, then drive. If driving from South of the border, the M6 and M74 take you as far as Glasgow. From there, the A82 takes you North to Fort William (the main hub for Ben Nevis/Glen Coe, or the A9 takes you over to the Cairngorms

Guidebooks/Maps 

There are two guidebooks by Cicerone, one for Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, the other for the Cairngorms. These give good coverage of the most popular areas. In addition, the Scottish Mountaineering Club publishes a select guide and definitive guides for most of Scotland.

The standard maps (as for most of Britain) are produced by the Ordnance Survey in 1:25000 and 1:50000 scales. Since a lot of Scottish winter climbing is very remote, it is recommended that every party should carry a 1:25000 scale map and compass.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Scottish winter climbing
Not all the belays were this good

Zero Gully WI3 R  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Ben Nevis
A classic route with poor gear and belays. The climbing is not as hard as Point Five Gully, but the overall route is just as serious, and the paucity of any protection puts off a lot of climbers.The base of the gully is between the Orion Face and Observatory Buttress.P1) Easy angled snow-ice, with a steeper icy step leads to a belay at the base of a left-slanting chimney. In fat conditions you'll hardly notice the step, and a lot of climbers start higher, getting to the top of P2 in one rope len...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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