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Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
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Unsorted Routes:

Scottish Gully 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches
Consensus: WI3 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 5,611
Submitted By: Peter Holcombe on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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BETA PHOTO: Taken Dec 14, 2006 after a great day of climbing. ...

Description 

This is the longest continuous piece of ice up there. It is in the gully on the left side.

P1. Go up the cascade with short bulges to the gully.

P2. Continue up the gully to trees or spots under headwall. These pitches can be combined.

P3. Finish up the headwall, you can pick your grade here from EZ to WI4-.

Belay on bolts found on the sides of a boulder on the top.

Eds. This has been named the Bowling Alley, Scottish Gully, Lincoln Falls Major, and probably many other things. This original post will serve to represent the obvious, long, ice gully.

Protection 

Screws & slings for tree belays.


Photos of Scottish Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Scottish Gully (the way we climbed it) WI3-.
BETA PHOTO: Scottish Gully (the way we climbed it) WI3-.
Left hand side of central icefall. 11/02/02.
Left hand side of central icefall. 11/02/02.
Ian Wolfe - Gettin nasty with it! <br /> <br />If we only knew the jeep was a bust...The next time I say let's take the jeep, say Mark, remember to check the cables.
Ian Wolfe - Gettin nasty with it!

If we only knew...
Ed McDonald clearing the first cascade on P1 of Scottish Gully on 10/30/2004.
Ed McDonald clearing the first cascade on P1 of Sc...
Gareth being intimidated by the pillar. 11/02/02.
Gareth being intimidated by the pillar. 11/02/02.
Mount Lincoln ice in late November 2004
Mount Lincoln ice in late November 2004
Chicken Screamer(tm) testing on Scottish Gully.  Photo by Eric Lee, <a href='http://ericjlee.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ericjlee.com</a>.
Chicken Screamer(tm) testing on Scottish Gully. P...
Newt's on 11/22/04
Newt's on 11/22/04
Pete Lardy completing the last pitch on the headwall.
Pete Lardy completing the last pitch on the headwa...
Climbing Mt. Lincoln (Right side 2/27/05) in fat conditions. Nice little pillar formed up on right. Great conditions with the warmer weather, not as brittle as usuall this time of year. Cheers!
Climbing Mt. Lincoln (Right side 2/27/05) in fat c...
The central icefall, about WI 4. 11/02/02
The central icefall, about WI 4. 11/02/02
In the gully
In the gully
Lohmeier, playing in some late season ice on the headwall slot.
Lohmeier, playing in some late season ice on the h...
Look -- An exit from the bowling alley; John, let's get outta here before we get bowled. <br /> <br />(I think this is the same corner as Leo is describing in his comment. If so, ditto what he stated. I would bring a pin or two; I had only RPs that sort of worked, then stubbies. The start belay is good & sheltered from those above us on the final pitch of the standard climb in early season. But the belay fills in later on during the season and can get exposed.)
Look -- An exit from the bowling alley; ...
Top of the Gully.
Top of the Gully.
Mariusz warm up before Mt.Rainier, 06-29-10. <br />Photo: J. Czyz.
Mariusz warm up before Mt.Rainier, 06-29-10.
Photo...
Looking back at the reservoir.
Looking back at the reservoir.
Last pitch!
Last pitch!
Second pitch in 2004.
Second pitch in 2004.
Here's a treat that just came in. Just uphill from the first mixed left-exit. <br /> <br />Been waiting for this, thought it wouldn't show -- this wall is difficult to anchor for your second.
Here's a treat that just came in. Just uphill from...
Rapping the gully.
Rapping the gully.
Pure Alley Headwall!!
Pure Alley Headwall!!
April 5 2014, deep snow covering mid-section of route.
BETA PHOTO: April 5 2014, deep snow covering mid-section of ro...

Comments on Scottish Gully Add Comment
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 26, 2002

Never could quite understand the distinct lines from Roberts' "Colorado Ice." There is a nice variation that we followed David Sweet up. Once you get into the lower angle stuff of the main flow about 110 feet up, look L and find an inviting thinnish, lower-angled runnel in a corner. 35 feet. Not hard but just plain fun. Pins, stubbies, or threads for pro.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2002

Climbed at Lincoln Falls Monday, November 18. Ice was in thick both the left and right main flows. Big pillar to the far right was all the way down and thick, but with a visible horizontal fracture at mid height. Terrific conditions. Very fat.
By Edward Corder II
Aug 20, 2003

There is a great mixed line climbers right of the piller pictured below.It is all trad & a bit ran out in the start. One of the best mixed lines around the area. Bring stoppers & small cams. There is a fixed pin 12ft off the ground, this is your first piece of gear. The rest of the climb is a splitter steep crack to a ice curtian finnish. Most climbers toprope this mixed line for good reason. M-7, WI5, 3 stars.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 15, 2004

As of Saturday, the ice was coming in great. The slabs on the far right were conected and the area to the far left had created a nice curtain and a couple of exceptional pillars. However, it was so crowded that would definitely recomend getting there on a week day or getting an early start.
By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
Apr 3, 2006

I like this route a lot.... One of my favorites.
By T-Bob
Jul 30, 2007
rating: WI3-

A really fun route which is mostly easier than WI3. I've been up there a few times over the past couple of years now and have learned a few lessons. 1. Bring a belay jacket. The wind gets moving up there and it gets cold while your waiting around or belaying. 2. This is a very popular route and more so on the weekends. The gully flushes every bit of debris right down to the bottom so set up accordingly and don't get angry with the folks above you. This is inherent to this type of route. 3. In very cold conditions the road leading in can get VERY slippery. Be sure you can get back out before you go in. We didn't get any cell reception up there.