Scotch and Soda
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One or two pitches.
Scotch & Soda feels like The Metamorphosis' big brother, only not quite as nice. Still, it's a good climb with memorable moves, position, and... ahem... *excitement*. Personally I was less scared leading this than I was leading the Metamorphosis for the first time, but that was a year ago. Nevertheless expect significant runouts at 9+/10-.
The climb begins at the apex of the triangle on the south face of the Wind Tower and tackles the obvious A-shaped roof directly. Begin by clipping a piton and performing some very awkward moves to get situated on the polished ramp above the triangle. Once you've turned around on your hands and knees enough times to realize that there's just no easy way, perform a committing stand-up move using an undercling. From this position you can place a solid yellow Alien or equivalent over your head to protect the next few moves. Climb up into the roof to a good stance with good gear (fixed wires, green Alien at lip), and decipher the roof sequence (hint: the easiest way is NOT the most obvious). This is the hardest move on the route - checking in at about 11b. Follow easier terrain up to a belay at a two-bolt anchor.
Just above the belay is a modern bolt; clip this and head left to a slung stopper and a bad bolt (do not go right towards the two pitons on bulging rock - this is Deutsch Sturheit 11b VS). Paralleling the Metamorphosis, run it out for about 20' on 10- past another two-bolt anchor and yet another modern bolt. This bolt protects some fun, difficult moves - positive holds but steep rock! Continue up and climb either a) left to join the Metamorphosis just above its 5.9 mantle (requires more crawling on polished rock) or b) head straight up on fresh terrain (requires climbing on lichen and somewhat crumbly rock).
Small stoppers, cams through 1.5" - include Aliens or TCU's.
|Comments on Scotch and Soda
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R
Not as runout as the book implies, and probably not as hard. The moves near the bad bolt felt like 5.10b to I and a partner last summer. The key is momentum and to keep moving.
|By Rob Kepley|
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a R
First pitch is really good. Pulling the roof is perplexing until you figure it out, then it makes total sense. The second pitch is a bit of a butt clincher. If this climb saw more traffic it would clean up a bit.
|By Scott Bennett|
May 24, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Worthwhile pitch, not as high-quality as Metamorphosis, but it shares the same cool position and short approach.
There are many new bolts on the face above the roof, it's not at all runout. After the roof, go up and left past a pin to a two-bolt anchor. Zig zag left, then right, past two more new bolts to another 2 bolt station (?). Another new bolt protects you going straight up past a final hard move, then wander up the lichenous face to the top of the wall. Belay at one bolt (with good gear) as for Metamorphasis.
This route is about 35m from the top of the Triangular ramp to the belay, and can easily be done in one pitch. If you're second falls at the roof, though, rope-stretch will likely drop them back to the ledge.