|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 150'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||FA: Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz - 1962|
FFA: Jim Erickson & Art Higbee - 1973
|Fixed Hardware:||2 Belay Bolts, 5 Lead Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Jun 17, 2003|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Scotch and Soda||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
|Not as runout as the book implies, and probably not as hard. The moves near the bad bolt felt like 5.10b to I and a partner last summer. The key is momentum and to keep moving.|
By Rob Kepley
Apr 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
|First pitch is really good. Pulling the roof is perplexing until you figure it out, then it makes total sense. The second pitch is a bit of a butt clincher. If this climb saw more traffic it would clean up a bit.|
By Scott Bennett
May 24, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Worthwhile pitch, not as high-quality as Metamorphosis, but it shares the same cool position and short approach.
There are many new bolts on the face above the roof, it's not at all runout. After the roof, go up and left past a pin to a two-bolt anchor. Zig zag left, then right, past two more new bolts to another 2 bolt station (?). Another new bolt protects you going straight up past a final hard move, then wander up the lichenous face to the top of the wall. Belay at one bolt (with good gear) as for Metamorphasis.
This route is about 35m from the top of the Triangular ramp to the belay, and can easily be done in one pitch. If you're second falls at the roof, though, rope-stretch will likely drop them back to the ledge.