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Lower Peanuts
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No Visible Means of Support 
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Scorpions 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Not sure
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Sep 1, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a worthy route. It does not merit a serious rating if your nutcraft is good.

Start as for Peanuts. Where that route cuts left at the overhang, head straight up the shallow dihedral/finger crack above. A green Alien in a placement below a pin adds to the comfort level. Clip a bolt and hoist yourself into a second dihedral/groove with another bolt at its top. More climbing up and left, then back right to clip the anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack, with Aliens.



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By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Sep 26, 2003

Did this recently and thought it was a great route, and relatively well protected too. This really is THE line started by Peanuts, and it seems as if Peanuts should be considered a variation to this route, not vice-versa. Nuts and Aliens and the fixed gear present can sew it up about as well as your standard Eldo route; and all of the hard moves have fixed pro right where you need it.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 19, 2004

'S' only in the sense that it could be dangerous if gear blows. The piton looks suspect and the gear below it (green alien in the description above... I got a stopper which frees up the hold) is in a somewhat hollowish sounding flake. Steeper and pumpier than it looks.

By Bob Rotert
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

A worthy route and one of my favorite routes on Peanuts. Good climbing with a steep and pumpy crux. Doing this and linking it with Forbidden Planet on upper wall of Lower Peanuts makes for good outing on Lower Peanuts.

By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Apr 30, 2008

There is a loose flake in the dihedral/groove at the top of this route. So be careful.

By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Jun 12, 2011

The loose flake mentioned by Taylor is no longer there. I was almost through the dihedral crux and I suddenly found myself airborne along with the suspect flake. Nobody was hurt and my partner and I both think that the modification didn't really change the climb.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Aug 26, 2011

A good route, and I was more nervous going into it than I should have been. It is a safe route as long as the pin holds (but you probably won't be falling onto it).

Apparently I went the wrong way at the first bolt and climbed straight up the edgy face to the left of the bolt, instead of staying in the shallow dihedral to the right. I would say it's about 5.11 still, but if you think that is the route, the bolt placements seem really goofy, and the second bolt is really hard to clip.

By Rob DeZonia
Sep 6, 2011

This thing is great. It's a great and long pitch if you climb it straight up into Air Guitar. I climbed it many times before my brother asked me if the giant flake you pull into through the crux made me nervous. He pointed out it was a bit rattly to me, and now I'm a little more paranoid about it.

By Noah8000
From: Vail, CO
Aug 12, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

The climb is awesome up until the crux. I myself didn't enjoy the crux, but maybe that's cause I was trying to stay in the corner.