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The Bluffs
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YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Dec 21, 2009

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Me hanging out at a rest before the final section ...


Start either from the anchors of Scorpion Corner or on the ledge right of Quo Vadis. Put in a piece and step over the void and work around the roof into the exposed bottomless chimney. Don't worry it's not actually bottomless, just 100 feet off the deck. The climbing is fairly straight forward but a bit old school and a bit mental.

After pulling around the roof it turns into a mellow handcrack up until it widens at the very top.

An absolute classic moderate.


Up on the bluffs. The giant crack splitting the headstone with the bottomless chimney at the start. You can't miss it.


You could probably get by without a pair of #4s, but they're damn nice to have. One for the chimney at the bottom and the other makes the off-width at the top much easier when tired.

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