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The Golden Wall
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Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete 
Fickle Fingers 
Golden Dream, The 
Jam On! 
Scoop Arete 
Scoop Face 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) 
Skink Redirect 
Slot Machine 
Stinky Americans 
Super Skink 
Time for Therapy 

Scoop Arete 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,095
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Scoop Arete


Climb the far left arete of the large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink), past the "scooped out" section. Crux is there.


Far left arete of large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink). Easy walk-off.


PG pro. Gear-only anchor, around a single block.

Photos of Scoop Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Gear Anchor
BETA PHOTO: Gear Anchor
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By Gunkiemike
May 16, 2011

A blue Alien out right protects the crux.

By kenr
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Actually has real "arete" moves -- perhaps the only climb in the Gunks less than 5.10 with them -- moves where you grab the arete edge itself, move across the arete, etc.
As we say so often in the Gunks: Too bad this couldn't be longer.

Crux is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be ready to make a dynamice deadpoint -- to a nice positive hold.

Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West, with more slings threaded near the TR anchor as directional. Might also want to place a couple of cams on the arete itself as directionals against swinging off to climber's right.