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Scimitar 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FFA: Jim Orey, F. Van Overbeck 1972
Page Views: 3,728
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006
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Final pitch of Scimitar.
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Description 

A definite step up from the Line. This route has beautiful crack systems, roofs, bulges, route finding and a short heady unprotected face section. The crux is pulling the exposed roof after the 5.6R section on the second pitch. After negociating the first pitch its a strait line to the top. Some wandering from right to left and back is required to find the best holds on the runnout section.


Location 

Just to the right of Fantasia and the left of East Crack. Ask someone, they'll point it out.


Protection 

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.



Photos of Scimitar Slideshow Add Photo
Dana tops out on Scimitar - a really great route!
Dana tops out on Scimitar - a really great route!
Emily Howland glides through the P1 crux - July 2011
Emily Howland glides through the P1 crux - July 20...
Comments on Scimitar Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 9, 2013
By Jonathan Howland
Sep 20, 2006

A far better route than its relative lack-of-traffic would indicate. Have seen parties stacked up at the base of Bear's R. and The Line when Scimitar was wide-open, and it doesn't head/devolve into the traffic of formerly-bushy ledge like so many other nearby E. Wall routes. "Better route": varied, relatively continuous but mostly easy climbing; interesting gear placements/problems (but more than adequate gear); some typical LL route-finding conundrums that give you mindful pause.
One caveat: protect the .9 move on P2 (post-5.6 "run-out") carefully: a decent small cam in the crack as well as another better cam, or a nut, in the horizontal crack 3 feet left and just below this one-move crux.

By 426
Mar 10, 2007

A great route with some fantastic moves. I almost took a serious Birdman when I grabbed a bat behind a flake near the end of the 5.5 runout, so watch yerself...

By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 6, 2010

After the 5.6r towards the roof section is some loose rocks, watch out.
You can place some gear right after you start the second pitch, leaving it only about 15-20 feet of run out, Better than the 40ft. Very sustained 5.9. ****!!!

By fivefun
Jun 27, 2011

Fun climb! I found the step around on the 3rd pitch to be the crux.

By Gino DiSciullo
Jul 16, 2011

Attention on the second pitch regarding the loose block about 15-20 feet above the anchor that takes a #1-2 Camelot.

Given the runout section many climbers will be tempted to place a cam behind this 80 lb loose tooth, however over the last three climbing seasons the block has become notably less secure: it will Not protect a fall.

Ideally this block would be trundled and replaced with a bolt to make for a very safe climb.

Otherwise I believe Scimitar is the best climb on the wall.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011

Ideally any climber with any business on the route will know immediately that that block is crap and won't hold.

Trundeling the block and replacing it with a BOLT is NOT the IDEAL solution.

Besides, I don't remember ever placing pro until at the roof. The runnout is a one move wonder 5.6. Why does that need to be protected? The route is 5.9, any 5.9 climber should be able to float a 5.6. This ain't a gym people.

By Branden916
Jul 30, 2011

A decent route which is slightly runout in the easy sections(5.6) with good pro at all the cruxes. As for the gear goes a single to #2 Camalot and a set of nuts is about all you need, definitely leave the #3 & #4 that people recommend on the ground.

P.S Do not replace the loose block with a bolt..WTF are you thinking.

By charlie labrie
Jul 31, 2011

this route should be a 5.9R

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 19, 2011

I haven't climbed this, do others agree with Charlie's R rating?

By Josh Cameron
Oct 26, 2011

My favorite part of this climb is the crack after the 5.6 runout on the second pitch and the initial corner on the third pitch. Regarding the block, my opinion (for what its worth) is to trundle the block and be done at that. No need for a bolt. But maybe we could put up some plastic bucket holds (ala climbing gym) to make the runout more manageable ;>

By Bill Kelly
From: Lake Tahoe
Oct 31, 2011

"do others agree with Charlie's R rating?"

How about 5.9/5.5R? ;)

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 11, 2012

I would go along with an R rating, though I judge it PG13. Skip the derision--I second Mr. DiSciullo's ideas of dropping that block and setting a bolt. Better my belayer had been safer. It is runout right off the usual belay station or the bolt would be redundant.



Depends on your definitions of Runnout. I remember the first time I climbed the route as an unconfident noob. I thought it was a little spicy and definitely had the feeling that you didn't want to take that fall, but never really felt like it was dangerous or that I needed gear to get past it. The climbing is a one move wonder 5.6 and arguably that. Climbing is supposed to have a little uncertainty, spice and danger. It's what draws so many to it.

That block has been loose for decades. I guarantee the F.A. party didn't bother to place gear behind it because they were a competent party and anyone with any competence in climbing would know better. Now, you can't always protect the incompetent nor should you. If someone gets hurt placing gear behind a loose flake which pretty much no one else does, on a route that has been climbed in it's existing form for the past 43 years, does that responsibility fall on the shoulders of every other climber? The answer is NO! No one has the right to alter the characteristics of that long standing route because they felt "they" or "others" might not be quite up to it's challenges. That short, easy, unprotected section has been one of the routes defining character building characteristics since it was first lead in boots in 1969.

For these reasons among many others, a bolt wouldn't last one hour on this route.

Call it 5.9 (5.6-R)

By SirTobyThe3rd
Jul 15, 2012

That short, easy, unprotected section has been one of the routes defining character building characteristics since it was first lead in boots in 1969.

+1.

Not every climb has to be 'enjoyable' and safe. If you want it to be that, stay at the gym, or sport climb. If this climb is altered, it will take away from the experience.

5.9 5.6R is correct.

By ivo k
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2012

I just climbed this wonderful route for my second time. I lead all 3 pitches.

If some one wants that is looking to improve their trad climbing skills (someone who can confidently climb 5.9) this is a good route. It has route finding at a moderate level, easy Runout to improve your head, but good pro in the difficult spots.

I hope nobody ever puts a bolt in the 5.6 R section on the second pitch.We should respect the original route design.
here you will gain experience for climbing R in other climbing areas.

YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE TO IMPROVE YOUR OWN CONFIDENCE AND SKILLS TO BECOME AND BE A BETTER CLIMBER

5.9-5.6R

By Patrick Mulligan
Aug 6, 2013

the second and third pitch can be combined (barely) with careful rope management with a 70M rope. This is IMHO the best long pitch on the wall.

By Logan Swartz
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Free BD wiregate carabiner in the bushes I dropped from the second belay ledge.