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Pear and Apple
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A Farewell to Arms 
Commanche, The 
Pear and Apple Route 
Science Friction 
Superpseud omasochisticexpeealodochous 
To Steep For Sheep 

Science Friction 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: U.F.A.
Page Views: 416
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Stopping half way up Science Friction to take a pi...
  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Look for an old bolt about 40 feet off the deck. Climb to the bolt, then climb on the outside of a thin flake that makes weird sounds as you climb...at the top of this...clip another old bolt and then make a few steeper moves to a belay.


    Location 

    A slab climb located about 50 yards north of the pear and apple.


    Protection 

    two old bolts...some small cams and stoppers for belay.



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    By Daniel S
    From: Oklahoma City
    Mar 6, 2007
    rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

    Bolts were replaced Dec 06, and the climb has a bolted anchor with rap chains 80 Ft off the deck. The belay chains can also be accessed by a 3rd and 4th class ramp that starts about 40 yards to the left (north) of the climb if one wishes to toprope the climb.