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Science Friction  

V8

   
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Type: Boulder
Consensus: V8 [details]
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Submitted By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Science Friction.

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Description 

Start with decent side-pulls, gain the textured edge and sack-up and send!


Location 

Top of talus field near cliff band at the upper left side.


Protection 

Pads and spot.



Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet line.

Sweet line.

Vinny on the lower moves.

Vinny on the lower moves.

Getting into it.

Getting into it.

Hitting shitty gaston under the lip.

Hitting shitty gaston under the lip.

Beta.  It's the prominent boulder in the top middle.  Like Sweaty said, straight up from parking spot #20 from the left.

Beta. It's the prominent boulder in the top middl...

Vinny at the start.

Vinny at the start.


Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 5, 2011
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

I tried this a time or 2. Probably 2 separate lines. One that uses the arete and face and one that starts near the arete traverses a couple moves to the center and goes up. I tried the latter after building up the sloping hill a bit. Arete would need a bunch of cleaning and probably wouldn't be to hard maybe v3 or 4. Face is hard and painful and will be heady. Traverse isn't bad then you hit a really sharp sidepull thing and a bad right hand 2 finger gaston. Then you would have to hike your feet all the way up and manage to throw all the way to the lip (which is good). Doesnt seem to be any other holds but that. It is directly up from parking space #20 from the left if facing the talus.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

Here's my first try on this thing.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

Here is a tutorial of the holds.

By Trad Nanny
Dec 2, 2009

I never thought I would say this but...I'm psyched to go bouldering! (Gasp!) Weird, someone slap me.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009

I also never expected you to say that! :-) This boulder field is awesome. Really filthy, but awesome. You literally walk straight up from your car. Which is nice. and there's tons of big blocs you can see from the parking lot and can walk straight up and scope them. I like.

P.S. Did I mention that hold is sharp? Cause it's sharp.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2009

Cool Sweaty, good work! Yeah the upper section seemed like the crux. Big move to the lip.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2010

Linking this problem is very powerful. It needs to get sent!

By Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Nov 4, 2011

Ian sent it today. Peter, Ian and myself figured out the beta, and Ian put it all together for the send. Really, really, really fun movement on the opening moves to a hard move to the lip.

By Rock Warrior Films
Nov 5, 2011

Cool problem. Maybe v8 or so.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 5, 2011

Great job Ian! Psyched it finally went down. Do you have a new name for it?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 5, 2011

wow. nice!